Rear Dual battery

User avatar
Tinus lotz
Moderator
Posts: 7935
Joined: 29 Aug 2010 13:07
Full Name: Tinus lotz
Nickname: Tinus lotz
Home Town: Centurion
Current 4x4: Nissan patrol 4.8 GRX 2005

Toyota 2.7 legend 35 LWB 4X4
Home Language: Afrikaans
Has thanked: 694 times
Been thanked: 438 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by Tinus lotz »

The idea is to connect only critical things to the second battery like fresh meat and cold beer :rolling:

NoPressure
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 156
Joined: 12 Nov 2018 21:39
Full Name: Ruan
Nickname: Ruan
Home Town: Swakopmund
Current 4x4: 2017 Ford Ranger 3.2 D/C 4x4 Auto
2000 Nissan Patrol 4.5 GRX M/T
Home Language: Afrikaans
Has thanked: 59 times
Been thanked: 36 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by NoPressure »

David M wrote:
19 Feb 2017 17:52
The idea behind the box is that I can leave it in the vehicle or remove and leave at a campsite with the fridge etc.....

If remaining in the vehicle I have a solar input plug and 12V input or output in the back bumper which can plug into the box inside.

Power Station top.jpg

Inside is fairly basic with battery cable input from C Tek and decent wiring to the outputs as well as the C Tek's temperature sensor.

Power station input.jpg

The red is for solar in to the C Tek and the large grey is from the cranking battery with battery cabling.

Power station C Tek.jpg

The C Tek has a marine switch as a bypass for if I want power to the front battery for winching or starting if cranking battery packs up.

Power Station output.jpg

There are 2 grey inputs/outputs, a blue input/output for higher amperages (eg. inverter), double 2.1A USB, Hella and cigarette connections. As mentioned earlier one of the grey connectors connects to the back bumper if required so I can leave the car locked while for example charging the battery from 220V. Each of the inputs/outputs is separately fused and if a fuse blows a LED lights showing which one.
Good day David

Camping with friends this weekend, and they suddenly had their vehicle pouring smoke out as we were relaxing under the shade. It made me re-assess how my 12v setup is fused. (I had done it many years ago - which might be a problem as I know very little about the finer points of 12v systems).

My question is as follows- how do I go about calculating the right amp fuse to use?

If I recall correctly you want the normal constant draw to be ~80% of the fuse rating, but this should obviously be less than the amp rating of the electrical wire?
I see you have a 30 and 16amp blade fuse - for what are those respectively?
What about the trickle charger - it fluctuates in voltage delivery - or do you just use the wattage indicator on the unit to determine what amps would be max?

User avatar
Tunja
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 178
Joined: 25 Jun 2012 11:42
Full Name: Ernest Tunnah
Nickname: Tunja
Home Town: Somerset West
Current 4x4: 98 Patrol 4.5 GL
05 Mitsu SWB Pajero 3.8 V6
05 Prado VX120
11 BMW X5 Auto 8 speed -Swambo
Home Language: English
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 14 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by Tunja »

Tinus lotz wrote:
19 Jun 2017 19:56
The idea is to connect only critical things to the second battery like fresh meat and cold beer :rolling:
:rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling:

A man after my own heart :thumbup:

I have 2 x loose boxes with on off switched and brad harris connectors, will take and post some pix later.
'98 4500 GL Patrol : FR roof rack, ARB Bull bar with 2 spots & Winch, Drawer system, Dual battery system, Tow Bar, OME suspension, Rock Sliders, Side Awning, Tinted smash & grab.

User avatar
Tinus lotz
Moderator
Posts: 7935
Joined: 29 Aug 2010 13:07
Full Name: Tinus lotz
Nickname: Tinus lotz
Home Town: Centurion
Current 4x4: Nissan patrol 4.8 GRX 2005

Toyota 2.7 legend 35 LWB 4X4
Home Language: Afrikaans
Has thanked: 694 times
Been thanked: 438 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by Tinus lotz »

Jip man why connect things that needs a alternator to run to second battery ? Only critical things must connect to it

User avatar
David M
Patrolman
Patrolman
Posts: 886
Joined: 12 Nov 2013 15:13
Full Name: David Marais
Nickname: David Marais
Home Town: Midrand
Current 4x4: 1998 4.5 GL Patrol
2006 4.2 Td Bakkie (SWAMBO's) - The "Firetruck"
Home Language: English
Location: Midrand
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 94 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by David M »

NoPressure wrote:
07 May 2019 10:13
David M wrote:
19 Feb 2017 17:52
The idea behind the box is that I can leave it in the vehicle or remove and leave at a campsite with the fridge etc.....

If remaining in the vehicle I have a solar input plug and 12V input or output in the back bumper which can plug into the box inside.

Power Station top.jpg

Inside is fairly basic with battery cable input from C Tek and decent wiring to the outputs as well as the C Tek's temperature sensor.

Power station input.jpg

The red is for solar in to the C Tek and the large grey is from the cranking battery with battery cabling.

Power station C Tek.jpg

The C Tek has a marine switch as a bypass for if I want power to the front battery for winching or starting if cranking battery packs up.

Power Station output.jpg

There are 2 grey inputs/outputs, a blue input/output for higher amperages (eg. inverter), double 2.1A USB, Hella and cigarette connections. As mentioned earlier one of the grey connectors connects to the back bumper if required so I can leave the car locked while for example charging the battery from 220V. Each of the inputs/outputs is separately fused and if a fuse blows a LED lights showing which one.
Good day David

Camping with friends this weekend, and they suddenly had their vehicle pouring smoke out as we were relaxing under the shade. It made me re-assess how my 12v setup is fused. (I had done it many years ago - which might be a problem as I know very little about the finer points of 12v systems).

My question is as follows- how do I go about calculating the right amp fuse to use?

If I recall correctly you want the normal constant draw to be ~80% of the fuse rating, but this should obviously be less than the amp rating of the electrical wire?
I see you have a 30 and 16amp blade fuse - for what are those respectively?
What about the trickle charger - it fluctuates in voltage delivery - or do you just use the wattage indicator on the unit to determine what amps would be max?
Ruan - I would determine the fuse sizes by "phoning a friend" - ie. Jacques from Bushpower.
There are still places out there!!!! - Daniel Goz - The "Tapam" movie

User avatar
TijmenvdS
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 307
Joined: 23 Nov 2016 06:25
Full Name: Tijmen van der Steenhoven
Nickname: Tijmen
Home Town: Pretoria
Current 4x4: 1997 Patrol TD42 GQ ST
Chevrolet 1974 K10 402 V8
Home Language: Afrikaans
Has thanked: 26 times
Been thanked: 89 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by TijmenvdS »

Essentially I first check the power draw of what is connected, if it is a fridge: Snomaster 66L is rated at 5 amps so I would put in a fuse of Minimum 7.5A and maybe 10A. Or if you don't know what you are going to connect, put in a fuse rated lower than the wire thickness, you want the fuse to pop before your wires ignite. That can be calculated with https://www.solar-wind.co.uk/info/dc-cable-sizing-tool and adjusting "acceptable losses" between 3-5% But phoning a friend is the best and safest just to check if he concurs.
Matthew 6:33 Seek the Kingdom of God above ALL else, and live righteously, and he will give you everything you need.

My Build Thread: http://patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=7110

User avatar
biggles
Patrolman
Patrolman
Posts: 511
Joined: 18 Nov 2013 05:17
Full Name: Steven
Nickname: Steve
Home Town: Durbanville
Current 4x4: GUII Patrol 4.8
Home Language: English
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 78 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by biggles »

biggles wrote:
08 Mar 2017 15:07
biggles wrote:My box from bushpower is clicking away for 30 seconds rapidly. And that happens regularly... almost as though the solenoid doesn't know if it shjould be on or not. Is that normal?

I have also contacted Jaques.
Apparently it is normal :rolleyes:
So I found out 2 years later what that clicking was... I ended up replacing the whole bushpower unit with a ctek... and it never quite worked at expectation. Long trip the battery would not charge and I would have warm beer. I was beginning to get very disillusioned over the whole dual battery story. Then the ctek stopped charging and had all lights flashing... that particular combination was not in the manual, but it clearly indicated something was not quite correct.

I hauled the battery box out and put it on an ac- dc charger. First direct to the battery in recon mode, thinking the battery was faulty. Then after it was charged I connected the ctek dc-dc charger in 12v supply mode and it worked perfectly. So the charger was not the problem. I traced the Wi-Fi g to the main battery and opened the fuse holder.

Somebody had not pinched the But holding the 50A fuse in and it had worked loose. Having done the whole thing myself there was not many people to blame. But the fuse nut had held for about 6 months before coming loose. Vibrating it was always kicking solenoid in and out hence the clicking on the bushpower unit. And it got worse with time and the ctek obviously just got confused and shut down.

Since tightening the fuse I always have a fully charged battery.

The fuse holder was melted on the inside. Obviously the loose connection was arcing the whole time.
With great Power comes Great Fuel Consumption
:layrubber:

Pieter B
Patrolman
Patrolman
Posts: 580
Joined: 29 Sep 2014 12:40
Full Name: Pieter Botha
Nickname: Pieter
Home Town: Alberton
Current 4x4: '05 Patrol 4.8 GRX
Home Language: Afrikaans
Has thanked: 5 times
Been thanked: 75 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by Pieter B »

Krisis.......6 maande se warm bier :lol:

User avatar
Rhett
Patrolman
Patrolman
Posts: 509
Joined: 26 Jan 2016 14:48
Full Name: Rhett van der Stelt
Nickname: Rhett
Home Town: Heidelberg
Current 4x4: 2004 Nissan Patrol 4.8 GRX
1980 Toyota Land Cruiser HJ47
Home Language: English
Location: Heidelberg
Has thanked: 145 times
Been thanked: 61 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by Rhett »

Morning All!
I'm requesting some insight from anyone at all :wink:

So currently I have a 90ah crank battery and a 102ah semi-deep cycle (marine battery) as the second battery. Running standard 110amp alternator through the National Luna smart solenoid setup.

When at camp etc, I have a rooftop 150w solar panel which I manually swap over to. This provides around 5-7amps. So far I have had zero issues* for the last ± 4 years, but this is due to a lot of luck as not often have I had overcast / rainy weather conditions while away.

Now I get to my point. I have a spare deep-cycle battery at home, a 150ah 45kg monster from home solar setup. Battery is still good. Would this be a viable option if my 102ah packs up? My Waeco and other accessories would run for days off that, but it would take a LONG drive and to get the charge back up if it's still not being topped up by the solar panels during the day. Is it better to have extra amps 'in the bank' at the cost of extra weight? Or save 20kgs and know that your battery can be charged back up to full with a few hours of driving?

NOTE: I do also have a 220v conversion so I can trickle charge the batteries up off Eishkom grid at camp sites which supply.

* Zero issues other than a faulty plug, that is. My advise is that if you have a fridge permanently installed in your Patrol, hard wire it directly to you regulator / 12v system and throw that cigarette lighter plug socket away. Too many amps get lost due to heat.
Rhett
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9e98c ... XUyixKJavQ

Nissan Patrol 4.8 GRX
Toyota Land Cruiser HJ47

User avatar
Peter Connan
Moderator
Posts: 6130
Joined: 10 Sep 2010 07:21
Full Name: Peter Connan
Nickname: Piet
Home Town: Kempton Park
Current 4x4: 1996 Patrol 4.5SGL
Home Language: Afrikaans
Location: Kempton Park
Has thanked: 614 times
Been thanked: 605 times

Re: Rear Dual battery

Post by Peter Connan »

I guess more is always more. But that's a lot of extra weight to lug, and a fee days into the trip, you will basically be in the same boat. Once you have used that extra 50Ah, then you still need to put in what you use.

If you have the space and the payload available, by all means use it. But I suspect you would be better served by increasing your solar input. They still give some power even when it's overcast.

:mytwocents:
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.

Post Reply

Return to “13. Electrical & Electronics”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest