Bosal Tow Bar

[Clem]

Guys, Bosal make a short drop plate tow-bar for the GRX which basically a replacement for the existing rear recovery point - you simply unbolt the recovery point and then bolt the tow-bar into place.

A good idea or a bad idea?

I like that it avoids the necessity of drilling holes etc. in the vehicle.

[Peter Connan]

I have seen a couple of bent ones (although usually because they hook on an obstacle, not from towing).

Personally I think it is limiting as I want to use that attachment point for recovering and the tow bar's removal pin for the safety lanyard.

[Clem]

Thank you once again for the reply Peter. I could not fully follow the second half of your second sentence but I get the general gist.

My thinking was to fit the electrics with a separable connector plug so that I could leave the tow hitch off unless and until I needed it, in which case I could easily fit it when required and again remove it later if I was going to be doing serious off-road work. It should only be a matter of 10 min to fit or remove, either way.

I need to take another look at that Bosal tow bar but my impression was that the way it is designed, one should be able to still get a strap through the back of it so as to apply the force to the four bolts and still appropriately use it as a recovery point. But I will have to look again and then make up my mind as to whether that is correct or not. It also occurs to me that it may be possible to fit the recovery point plate across the face of the tow bar drop plate so that one has "the best of both worlds" – unless one runs the risk of bending it, as you have pointed out.

I suppose the positive aspect of the Bosal option is that if it turns out to be a dud, one can always fit a conventional tow bar anyway afterwards, without really having lost very much.

Once again, many thanks for the input and the pointers.

Cheers,
Clem

[Peter Connan]

Clem, see about half-way down the page.

http://www.patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.ph ... 0&start=90

I am a firm believer of the safety lanyard, but to use it one needs multiple recovery points. Which is why I prefer to keep that point for use only as a recovery point, and have an entirely separate towbar setup which can be used as a second recovery point. Obviously not using a standard tow ball. I am fortunate enough to have a very sturdy towbar with removable tail section. I use the pin holding this removable tail section to hold the lanyard, although arguably this should actually be the main recovery point (using a specialized fitting), as the attachment is considerably stronger than the four bolts holding the pintle hook.

In an emergency though I suspect the lashing points are strong enough to be used for the lanyard, but my towbar bolts partially to them and partially directly to the chassis.

I agree that snatching is a desperate last-ditch effort, but in my opinion one should be properly prepared for it?
For me it's like a set of spotlights: I avoid driving at night as far as possible, but if a medical emergency occurs at night, it could just make the difference?

[Clem]

Thank you Peter. I now see what you mean. A good idea and I will probably then use the lashing points for a safety lanyard. A pretty hefty recovery rope in that picture.

Out of curiosity I unbolted the rear recovery point on my car this evening. I think the welds on that eye will give long before the bolts do. I was somewhat surprised that the rear of the eye is not welded.

Clearly, the chassis is massively strong at that point. I'll need to do some homework as to how much force the (presumably high tensile) bolts are likely to withstand.

I was looking at the original rear hitch drop plate on my Series SWB, which I've never managed to bend - it has strengthening ribs welded up the side. I see an improvement to the Bosal design being effected. :-)

[Stefan]

Here are some pictures of the replacement recovery point that G-Man makes.

http://www.patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.ph ... &start=120

[Peter Connan]

Assuming the use of Grade 8.8 high-tensile bolts, that's a yield load of 13.5 tons, and breaking strain just short of 17 tons Clem.

Just about right actually (to my way of thinking).

That rope of mine is 16ton MBS, which is actually a bit stronger than is ideal to my way of thinking, but I have made sure my recovery points can deal with that.

OF course that means that when something does go wrong, it's going to be my head the shackle goes through hey?

[Clem]

Peter, all I can say is I do not want to be anywhere even remotely nearby when that thing goes badly pear shaped. It is a good argument for an 8 mm steel plate across the back window of your car… Not too different to the armour plating that Douglas Bader had behind his seat. Nor are the reasons too different. It is also the same reason why, when winching, I always open the bonnet on my car.

[Clem]

Right, so I have now got the Bosal tow bar (one of those where you simply unbolt the recovery point and bolt the tow bar on) and looking at it, I think one would have to try exceptionally hard to bend it. The plate is no less than 12 mm thick (maybe a bit more) and has a strengthening rib welded down the back (seam welded in a very strong fashion) that is at least 8 mm thick. While the tow bar is nominally rated for 1.1 t, it is clear that it is quite capable of dealing with vastly more force than that. They must have a huge safety margin on these things. Anyway, I have also got a disconnector plug so in theory, I should be able to quickly fit and remove the tow bar when necessary.

That all takes me to the next question… I have never fitted a tow bar in my life before and I am now wondering where I should cut into the wiring harness in order to connect the electrical items? Does anybody have any advice or input for me? We are talking about a GRX, if it makes a difference.

[Clem]

Oh, and wiring colour codes would be useful too, if anyone has them. :-)