Good day everybody,
Following your help and advice we completed out trip and it was fantastic, herewith a short report:
Day (evening) -1: Garage in Kempton Park
The fuel consumption was not too great following the tappet-gap/points and timing service followed up by a correction of the vacuum hoses connections after SP carbs messed it up greatly. Peter was project leader so I really didn't doubt the craftmanship or expertise. Following my pre-trip machanical inspection, tyre checks etc I decided to check the timing again and it was at +5° advance (funnily, vacuum advance connected or disconnected no difference at idle). This was wrong. At the first adjustment attempt I realised the bolt has stripped. Inspection revealed it was the thread in the cast iron that stripped, since it was the wrong bolt and too short - consequently only two or three thread turns bited to the bolt and needles to say, no Mike Tyson required to strip the thread, it is bound to strip from vibration alone. Six hours later and remedial action was completed, just in time for my early morning flight. I will elaborate on this matter in a different thread.
Day1: Maseru to Ramabanta Trading Post Lodge.
We started the Thursday at about 17h30, following work obligations in Maseru. We initially intended to stay/camp at Semonkong lodge, but upon advice from a bussiness associate in Maseru we stayed at Ramabanta Trading Post Lodge. We arrived at about 19:30 and the host Danie was excellent. Concerned for our well-being, pointed everything out, provided firewood, all without being "too much" in your face.
- Ramabanta camp.jpg (196.11 KiB) Viewed 3336 times
We actually really wanted to do a worthy 4x4 trip, but nobody else was prepared to join on such short notice. the initial plan was to find a victim and head through the Senqunyane to Mantsonyane to Katse, but camping with a 20 month old monster we got away a little late and did not find a fellow 4x4 tourist in time. So we drove to the Maletsunyane Falls.
The pass between Ramabanta and Semonkong was thoroughly snowed and iced over. In the morning a front-end-loader was still busy clearing the road surface, we however passed and did not wait for the ice to be cleared. Had to do it like two porcupines mating: very, very carefull but no problems whatsoever. None the less, a bit tense and I omitted to take pictures, also the slope was of such a nature one had to keep moving or you would simply slide, to stop required to veer off the road to the soft snow on the side. There was some areas continiously covered with snowdrift, in spite of the FEL efforts. Some taxis were making their way up in spite of the ice, throughing bushes underneath the wheels for traction.
- Ramabanta to Semonkong Pass.jpg (256.78 KiB) Viewed 3336 times
- snow covered A5.jpg (286.42 KiB) Viewed 3336 times
- Maletsunyane Falls.jpg (214.82 KiB) Viewed 3336 times
Day 3 Ramabanta - Senqunyane - Manstonyane - St James Lodge
We agreed to meet the other couple at semonkong Lodge at about 10:00. However, with plastic useless in Lesotho I could not fill up at Semonkong and had to drive back to Roma to fuel up first. SWAMBO drove the car down from Jozi while my colleague and I flew to Maseru the Thursday. She filled up in Winburg and I was not driving the night to Ramabanta (in no small part due to our bussiness associates deal closing formalities the Thursday afternoon!
) and not driving myself I never noticed this. In all fairness on the way to Ramabanta, just before Roma SWAMBO mentioned somethingabout filling up and I responded something like "I'll sort it tomorrow... 
Roma to Ramabanta is ±1 hour and Ramabanta to Semonkong also an hour. Please guys, one thing I noted from the tourists, they drive very fast on these roads. Most however do slow down for animals, but in my opinion not enough. Observe how the locals drive and when in Roma... Furthermore a lot of travellers we encountered does not slow down when there are people alongside the road. I hitchhiked a lot in my life on gravel roads, once cycled From Wepener to Sani Pass and it is very annoying to have a Bosjeep charging past you, showering you with gravel and dust.
We pressed on with due care and arrived at Semonkong lodge only at 11:30. Due to the anxiety of having the other people waiting for us, we moved straight into the lodge area up towards their rondawel. Too fast and too audacious, in retrospect quite rightly so, for the liking of the lodge owner.
I would like to take this moment to reiterate: My unreserved apologies to the Semonkong lodge owner, staff and guests.
The innkeeper informed me that our travel companions left 3 hours ago. She also elaborated on her feelings regarding my tresspassing. However, full credit to her for still being most helpfull after the little incident, says a lot about her character. She gave me a map and detailed directions, our intended route being "Route 5: Senqunyane" on their menu of routes.
Reliable and sound advice and information is difficult to come by for routes in Lesotho, we found out beforehand. Unfortunately this seemed to be the case even when you are in Lesotho. I was advised by the Innkeeper at Semonkong that this route has, to her understanding, not been driven in the past year and that with current waterlevels she reckons it will be impossible to cross the Senqunyane, also the route is "extreme 4x4" and that does not apply only to the Senqu crossing. I have noticed the phrase "extreme 4x4" to be quite a catchphrase used by the ex-pats in Lesotho.
Non the less, we were alone and not fancying driving back to Roma and then taking the A3. We took stock and agreed we have:
- A spade (in my opinion the most important piece of kit :), as when driving trucks I learned no truck-driver had a high lift jack but a spade can get you out of trouble) and upon Peter Connan's recommendation of taking a pick along my wife packed my Ice-climbing axe in case we need to chip out ice on the road.
- Enough food for a week plus 12 kg rump steak from our client in Maseru.
- Good tents, -20°C down bags and down jackets, and other cold weather equipment.
- A good deal cold weather and harsh elements experience from our pre-parenthood mountaineering days, on top my my colleague being an Austrian and also an adventure sport fundi.
- Enough fuel, that can also be used for the MSR stoves, the basic tools and by now a decent relationship with the mechanics of the vehicle
- Peter Connan's spare wheel.
- A thorough history of long distance treks, mountaineering etc should seeking help by foot be required. When contemplating this thought, it did occur to me that SWAMBO hiked the Fish River Canyon when 5 months pregnant, thus implying she's the one best qualified for this taks, should the need arise...
- A Nissan Patrol
We decided to "go and have a look" and turn back as soon as we did not feel comfy anymore.
Wow, what a trail and what an experience. Though I would be wary of calling it "extreme 4x4", it is not Sani Pass and you have to uderstand you vehicle and you have to be able to make confident decisions.
Finding the trail was reasonably easy, at one point we were not sure about a fork but in Lesotho there are always and everywher people, no matter to which remote are you venture. If you cant find them, stop and take out your lunchbox! We were pointed without hesitation in the right direction.
The last 1.5km before the river is a fairly challenging downhill. It should be mentioned that it is very committed as you will mot be able to turn around. Very rocky, exposed and worn out. You need a decent (read very good) ground-clearance and then still be emotionally in touch with the lowest parts & positions on your vehicle. But take it slow, decent on LR 1st and subtle braking, keep smooth and continious motion and you are fine. The PB kids rushed to the scene and pretended to be rolling rocks out and into position. Some of them capable of very elequaint english and others only able to do the basic "I am hungry" rhymes.
- Senqunyane W to E Descent.jpg (300.74 KiB) Viewed 3336 times
- Senqunyane crossing.jpg (315.76 KiB) Viewed 3336 times
- Senqunyane crossing II.jpg (269.82 KiB) Viewed 3336 times
The same cannot be said for the drive out of the valley. The exist from the river basin was difficult, the following climbs steep and technical. Here one has a great advantage with the Patrol's straight 6, low down torque and low ratios on 1st LR. We purred out at a constant 1100rpm, maintaining the low speed momentum. Once again, ground clearance is very important. Here it is important that momentum is maintained and this is where you have to know what your vehicle will be able to to and not be capable of when selecting your lines, for if you are to stop at any of these slopes it will become a messy affair to get going again. A mixture of loose rocks, big embedded rocks, rock layer outcrops and that silly fine grain basalt gravel. It some points I thought I was going to regret not having engaged the diff lock, as I didn't foresee the Basalt gravel, but lady luck was on my side. We managed to get up in one continious smooth climb without once having to stop and plan ahead, though at some stages this was to my great surprise.
Once the main climb out of the valley was completed we stopped for lunch. Very chuffed we expected the worst to be over after 2 hours from Semonkong.
VERY WRONG, the remainder of the road until about 8km before Manstonyane was horrific. Though the scenery is spectacular, the road is in horrific condition. this part we did in 2x4 as not more is required, but it is just bad and very slow going. However, remember that you are touring, take it easy and then it is an extremely rewarding drive. But still very long.
- Senqunyane Eastern Approach road.jpg (171.86 KiB) Viewed 3336 times
We arrived at Manstonyane at 6:30, meaning the drive took us 6 hours from Semonkong to Manstonyane. From Manstonyane to St James took us 4 hours and then another halfhour to find the lodge and then another 20 minutes to find somebody to book us in.
The A3 being a trunk road or not: At some point very worn out and it was clear that we unfortunately passed some spectacular scenery in pitch black darkness. There are no, not even at crucial T-junctions and turn-offs, roadsigns. Also the main road is not always straight ahead, a few places you had to turn off the road to stay on the main route. Some distance after Manstonyane the road was in great condition, other parts they were working on. For the most it is a road in state of neglect and in very poor condition, not worthy of being a trunk road. we travelled without a GPS and if anything it was a serious test of orienteering. Local input did help us, but once or twice I had to knock on the door of a hut where there are still lights on. When we passed there were still some ice patches on Menoaneng pass, but mainly to the side of the road. It was great to be driving on a Saturday night in a rural area and not having drunk pedestrians falling all over the road as is the case in SA. at the same token, not so easy to find directions from passers by if there are none.
- Menoaneng Pass.jpg (168.41 KiB) Viewed 3336 times
I think this is one route that enough information is availble for. I was somewhat dissapointed with the state of affairs at Sani Top, no benefit of the lodge to the village up there is visible. I know conditions are not great etc etc, but the image of things up there is not too great. Prices at the lodge is very steep, if not extortionate and it is crowded with glamper type thrill seekers (glamper = glamour camper
) driving up and down. Mokhotlong to the border post took us 2hours.Furthermore, the road from Mokhotlong is being rebuild all the way to the border post, by a Chinese contractor. I think this is essential to make a difference to the people as this will be a mayor connection road for a country that is to a certain extend import dependant. The purpose of this route and the state theroff does not match up. Then it is not really a testing 4x4 route, which leaves it somewhere inbetween. Upgrade and tarr it, let the road do what it is suppose to do: serve the people and connect communities. My two pence.
Then it was the long way back home, which went efficiently with no problems, just a mayor roadblock btween Villiers and Heidelberg where they stopped every car and every truck...
Other information: (My opinions only)
Ramabanta Trading Post Lodge:
Very neat, very clean. Good facilities, nice camping ground (R80 pppn). I looked at the rooms, though heating is by means of gas heater and not fireplace, it is cosy and comfy and once again very neat and clean, prices start from R150pppn I think. The lodge in general has a very beautifull setting, big lawns and well-looked-after gardens. There is good braai facilities that see you somewhat shelterd from rain should that be the case. I had no hesitation to drive back from Semonkong to camp here a second night. Good, current and real advice regarding routes can be found from the innkeeper.
Semonkong Lodge:
A good base to start from if you plan to attempt the Senqunyane route. Pricey. Nice lounge/restaurant area, friendly helpfull staff. The really pricy rondawels are also really nice with fireplaces. Set very much in the village, that quite frankly with all the zink huts and rubbish lying around is not a cultural experience. Though the lodge compound itself is clean it does have a "too busy feeling" in my opinion. As far value for money goes it was a bit too expensive for my liking. Prices at the bar was acceptable.
St James Lodge:
Seems to form part of the mission, good value for money, functional and cosey. Communial kitchen with gas stove, no fridge, nice lounge and tables. Cutlery supplied, good option when early getaway is required. Setting not much to write home about, however not bad and if you have the time take a stroll and admire what the mission has achieved.
Fuel:
Plastic means nothing. At Roma and Mohotlong there was ATM's. Fuel could be found at Maseru (cards work here, but not ALWAYS), Roma (Cash only, LRP and diesel only), Semonkong (cash only, LRP and Diesel only), Mokhotlong (unleaded and LRP, cash only)
Maps:
I like maps, but good maps are hard to come by. Tourist centre in Maseru apparently has good ones, my friend in Maseru supplied me with usefull topographical maps that turned out to be essential to route-find in the absence of sign posts.
Semonkong - Senqunyane - Manstonyane 4x4 route in a nutshell:
Tough, committed, but certainly not extreme. Know your stuff, abide by the rules and budget 10 hours, be prepared to sleep over. If you get some trouble, depending where, it wil definitely not be advisable to travel at night.
Roads:
The A5 is undergoing a serious upgrade and will become a 9m wide road from Roma to Semonkong. EXR construction currently busy and widening the bridges and they are moving at an impressive pace.
The A3 will also undergo upgrading and at Manstonyane they are already busy.
The A31 will also be upgraded, the Chinese currently busy there.
2nd Phase of the LHWS is due to start soon as well (1 or 2 years)
It is clear that they are investing in the infrastructure, which leave you with two options. To see it the way it used to be, go now.
Else, wait one year and you will be able to move much faster between the routes that distinguish men from mice
Do not hesitate to ask any questions, I'll be glad to help.
Regards
Marnus
