50mm & 100mm SUSPENSION KITS
- G-MAN
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50mm & 100mm SUSPENSION KITS
RAW PRODUCTS FOR SALE
ALL SHOCKS ARE 41MM BORE AND STEERING DAMPENERS IS 35MM
50MM LIFT KIT, COILS AND SHOCKS=10165.84
100MM LIFT KIT, COILS AND SHOCKS=11388.71
STEERING DAMPENER=1200.00
ADJUSTABLE PANHARD RODS FRONT AND REAR=3303.95 EACH
DROPBOXES FOR 100MM LIFT= 3500.00
082 378 9251
CHECK OUT THE WEBSITE- http://www.raw4x4.com.au
ALL SHOCKS ARE 41MM BORE AND STEERING DAMPENERS IS 35MM
50MM LIFT KIT, COILS AND SHOCKS=10165.84
100MM LIFT KIT, COILS AND SHOCKS=11388.71
STEERING DAMPENER=1200.00
ADJUSTABLE PANHARD RODS FRONT AND REAR=3303.95 EACH
DROPBOXES FOR 100MM LIFT= 3500.00
082 378 9251
CHECK OUT THE WEBSITE- http://www.raw4x4.com.au
Last edited by G-MAN on 03 Apr 2012 08:25, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: 50mm & 100mm SUSPENSION KITS
Gee asb so n bietjie meer detail oor die panhards.
kan jy n pic neem asb, Ek sien die OZ forums reken jy het n docuble locknut nodig- is die dubbel
Dankie
kan jy n pic neem asb, Ek sien die OZ forums reken jy het n docuble locknut nodig- is die dubbel
Dankie
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Re: 50mm & 100mm SUSPENSION KITS
Andries,
I have a 100mm TJM lift kit in my GQ. With this lift, the adjustable panhard rod needs to be installed so that the differentails can be correctly located. My GQ's movved 4 " from the true possition. Aslo do not waste your time with the castor correction bushes, and get drop boxes from GMAN.
From Wikkie
A Panhard rod (also called Panhard bar or track bar) is a component of a car suspension system that provides lateral location of the axle.[1] Originally invented by the Panhard automobile company of France in the early twentieth century, this device has been widely used ever since.
While the purpose of the suspension of an automobile is to allow the wheels to move vertically with respect to the body, it is undesirable to allow them to move forward and backwards (longitudinally), or side to side (laterally). The Panhard rod is designed to prevent lateral movement.[2] It is a simple device, consisting of a rigid bar running sideways in the same plane as the axle, connecting one end of the axle to the car body or chassis on the opposite side of the vehicle. The bar is attached on either end with pivots that permit it to swivel upwards and downwards only, so that the axle is allowed to move in the vertical plane only. This does not effectively locate the axle longitudinally, therefore it is usually used in conjunction with trailing arms which stabilize the axle in the longitudinal direction. This arrangement is not usually used with a leaf spring suspension, where the springs themselves supply enough lateral rigidity, but only with coil spring suspensions.
The advantage of the Panhard rod is its simplicity. Its major disadvantage is that the axle must necessarily move in an arc relative to the body, with the radius equal to the length of the Panhard rod. If the rod is too short, there will be excessive sideways movement between the axle and the body at the ends of the spring travel. Therefore, the Panhard rod is less desirable on smaller cars than larger ones.
I have a 100mm TJM lift kit in my GQ. With this lift, the adjustable panhard rod needs to be installed so that the differentails can be correctly located. My GQ's movved 4 " from the true possition. Aslo do not waste your time with the castor correction bushes, and get drop boxes from GMAN.
From Wikkie
A Panhard rod (also called Panhard bar or track bar) is a component of a car suspension system that provides lateral location of the axle.[1] Originally invented by the Panhard automobile company of France in the early twentieth century, this device has been widely used ever since.
While the purpose of the suspension of an automobile is to allow the wheels to move vertically with respect to the body, it is undesirable to allow them to move forward and backwards (longitudinally), or side to side (laterally). The Panhard rod is designed to prevent lateral movement.[2] It is a simple device, consisting of a rigid bar running sideways in the same plane as the axle, connecting one end of the axle to the car body or chassis on the opposite side of the vehicle. The bar is attached on either end with pivots that permit it to swivel upwards and downwards only, so that the axle is allowed to move in the vertical plane only. This does not effectively locate the axle longitudinally, therefore it is usually used in conjunction with trailing arms which stabilize the axle in the longitudinal direction. This arrangement is not usually used with a leaf spring suspension, where the springs themselves supply enough lateral rigidity, but only with coil spring suspensions.
The advantage of the Panhard rod is its simplicity. Its major disadvantage is that the axle must necessarily move in an arc relative to the body, with the radius equal to the length of the Panhard rod. If the rod is too short, there will be excessive sideways movement between the axle and the body at the ends of the spring travel. Therefore, the Panhard rod is less desirable on smaller cars than larger ones.
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V8 Power
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if you were never young and crazy
You can't expect to be old and wise
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- Grootseun
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Re: 50mm & 100mm SUSPENSION KITS
100mm , i wonder ive always felt that when i do spend the money on a lift i might as wel go big , can just see a GU on 4" lift and some proper off road tyres
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Bigger Intercooler
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Bigger Intercooler
Oil Catch Can
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More Mods to follow
- Grant
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Re: 50mm & 100mm SUSPENSION KITS
100 mm suspension lift and a 50 mm body lift










V8 Power
You can't expect to be old and wise
if you were never young and crazy
You can't expect to be old and wise
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- G-MAN
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- Grant
- Patrolman 1000+
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Hilux 2,4 4x4 SC Dakar - Home Language: English
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Re: 50mm & 100mm SUSPENSION KITS
No problem. Not many people have gone through the process of fitting a 100mm lift and when I tell them you need panhard rods and castor correction, they then realise that it is alot more expensive that a normal 50 mm lift. With the 100mm lift you get so much more articluation, but here come some other issues you will need to resolve,
Extend the anti sway bars
Extend the bump stops.
Extend the brake pipes
Extend the brake bias braket
Extend the diff breathers.
You then realise that you also need to do a body lift to get the full potential out of the system.
Extend the anti sway bars


Extend the bump stops.


Extend the brake pipes


Extend the brake bias braket



Extend the diff breathers.


You then realise that you also need to do a body lift to get the full potential out of the system.
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Re: 50mm & 100mm SUSPENSION KITS
Dag Manne, wat sal die kostes wees van so 100mm lift, en 50mm bodylift? Het huidiglik tjm suspensie in. Het onlangs 35" bande op gesit,maar hul stamp deur. As ek so na julle skrywe's kyk dan bewe my broek want die goed is grieks vir my. Sal graag raad wil he vir al die vrae en kostes, en wie dt vir my sal kan doen. Spanner swaai is nie een van my sterk punte nie.
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Re: 50mm & 100mm SUSPENSION KITS
Hi Tommie
Ek is ook nie goed met spanners en dinge nie. Alles is 'n onkoste want ek het nie self die vaardighede nie.
Ek het a 50mm OME suspensie lift met 50mm body lift.
Die rede vir my body lift was eintlik meer te doen met die enjin wat ek moes in pas (dat die sump nie te laag le nie) as met die suspensie te doen. Maar sedertdien het ek besef die body lift het baie meriete. Ek kap nie my agter buffer so maklik soos van die ander ouens nie (Maart 2012 in Moegatle) en ek het nog hope spasie bo die bande (met 33" grootte).
Jy kan, so ver ek weet, 'n 50mm body lift laat doen sonder enige van die newe efekte wat die 100mm suspensie lift teweeg bring wat Grant genoem het. En dit sal jou baie help met die vassit van jou 35' bande binne jou modder skerm.
Maar dan bygese, ek dink ook nie 35" bande is ideaal vir Potrollies nie. Jy verloor teveel krag en vreet in meeste gevalle meer brandstof. Dit lyk net meer indrukwekkend.
As jy egter nou klaar met die groot bande sit en jy wil kostes bespaar, kan jy dalk eerder eers die body lift laat doen en dan kyk hoe dit gaan, voor jy die skynbaar baie groter onkostes aangaan van die 100mm suspensie lift.
Ander opinies?
Ek is ook nie goed met spanners en dinge nie. Alles is 'n onkoste want ek het nie self die vaardighede nie.
Ek het a 50mm OME suspensie lift met 50mm body lift.
Die rede vir my body lift was eintlik meer te doen met die enjin wat ek moes in pas (dat die sump nie te laag le nie) as met die suspensie te doen. Maar sedertdien het ek besef die body lift het baie meriete. Ek kap nie my agter buffer so maklik soos van die ander ouens nie (Maart 2012 in Moegatle) en ek het nog hope spasie bo die bande (met 33" grootte).
Jy kan, so ver ek weet, 'n 50mm body lift laat doen sonder enige van die newe efekte wat die 100mm suspensie lift teweeg bring wat Grant genoem het. En dit sal jou baie help met die vassit van jou 35' bande binne jou modder skerm.
Maar dan bygese, ek dink ook nie 35" bande is ideaal vir Potrollies nie. Jy verloor teveel krag en vreet in meeste gevalle meer brandstof. Dit lyk net meer indrukwekkend.
As jy egter nou klaar met die groot bande sit en jy wil kostes bespaar, kan jy dalk eerder eers die body lift laat doen en dan kyk hoe dit gaan, voor jy die skynbaar baie groter onkostes aangaan van die 100mm suspensie lift.
Ander opinies?
Skilpad, Shortie, Toro & Masewa
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