Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

Hi Lads,

Ma's car a 30TDIGL 2001 has 235K on the clock and she is starting to feel sluggish. I do want to keep her for as long as I can as she has given us good service and she is great to drive ..... anywhere.
Now my Q is
1. If I have to make the choice, what is the best way forward??
Rebuild same motor? Or Replace with another motor .... if so what motor. Stay with Diesel ??? or go Petrol??? if motor replacment is the way to go ???
What would the cost comparison be between rebuild and replacing??

2. Can I drop the reverate that my turbo kicks in at. At the moment she comes in at about 1800 to 2000 and I would like her to kick in at say about 1500 .
Is that possible ??

Baie questions. Hoop to kry some antwoorde.
Thanks Dankie Jabonge.etc etc etc.

If she is sluggish clean the MAF meter .You will find it close to the aircleaner, take it out but be very gentle not to touch the element. Youll need torques type screw set .Plenty post on Oz site , how to do or consult the reference document.
Spray with Electrical switch cleaner only, not Q20 or WD 40 or something simular.Put it back and you have plenty of power again.
Also take the intercooler off , wash clean with degreaser , dry it properly and put back.Its contaminated like the MAF with oil.

Bokpatrol fit an EGT GAUGE as soon as you can !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Re. The engine , if I am you after its gone bang I will seriously look at rebuilding or fitting a TD42 turbo engine , the TD 42 are relatively cheap from importers in the main centre , approx R 18-22000.00 complete.Saying that , the ZD30 engine can achieve 400 000 km if you do certain mods, plenty post on Oz website.I enjoyed my the ZD30 , powerfull and tows well.
Re the rev rate of turbo, I dont know maybe its controlled by the ECU, so its need remapping I suppose.

More Danie,

Ek het my ZD30 enjin op 275 000km geblaas. Ek het besluit om my Patrol na 4.8 petrol om te skakel omdat ek op daai stadium 'n goeie transaksie met 'n 4.8 enjin en ratkas kon doen. Die waarheid was egter dat ek nie net die enjins en ratkas kon omruil nie. Ek moes al die elektriese harnaste, rekenaars en instrumente op die paneel ook omruil. As ek dit nie alles op dieselfde transaksie gekry het nie, sou dit my 'n fortuin gekos het. Die arbeid op die oorplanting was nietemin steeds baie geld. Ja, ek is uiters tevrede, MAAR DIS NIE DIE ENIGSTE OPSIE NIE.

1. Met die kilos op jou Patrol, sal ek beslis oorweeg om die enjin goed te ondersoek deur 'n deskundige (nie Nissan nie!) om vas te stel wat die toestand binne is voordat mens drastiese stappe neem. Jy sal op ander plekke op hierdie forum sien dat die geheim op daardie enjins die EGT is en deur die enjin se leeftyd 'n verskil kon maak aan die huidige toestand van die enjin.
2. Indien die enjin wesenlike sluitasie het maar nog nie "opgeblaas" het nie, is dit beslis die moeite werd om hom deur 'n "deskundige" (nie Nissan nie!) te laat oordoen. Op so 'n manier gaan jy weer baaaaaaie kilos uit hom kry. Sorg ook dat jy dan die EGT reg bestuur. Dit bly tog maar die beste om die voertuig standaard te hou. Dit is ook soos jy opmerk, die ZD30 enjin in die Patrol is 'n lieflike kombinasie wat baie lekker ry.
3. Indien 'n ZD30 enjin eers "opgeblaas" het, dan is die koste ODDS teen jou. My ZD30 sou ongeveer R90000 gekos het om oor te doen en 'n nuwe ZD30 sou ongeveer R120000 gekos het. Ja, ek kon op ander plekke 'n goedkoper "overall" laat doen, maar ek vertrou nie 'n goedkoop job op hierdie enjins nie. Dis sou darem pomp kalibrasie, nuwe sensors ens ingesluit het. In hierdie geval stem ek met Koos saam dat 'n 4.2 turbo diesel enjin die beste opsie is. Ek kon 'n lae kilo TD42 vir R35000 kry. Ek praat onder korreksie, maar die elektriese harnaste en instrumente behoort dalk redelik aanpasbaar te wees. Jy sal egter die rekenaar (ECU) moet aanpas. Nietemin sal jy 'n wonderlike voertuig he.

Die feit dat jou voertuig egter nou "sluggish" is beteken nie noodwendig groot fout nie. Koos is reg ivm die MAF sensor. Ek het self baie ervaring daarmee. Daar kan egter nog klein dingetjies wees wat lol. Dit kan maklik vasgestel word (nie by Nissan nie!) Tour de Frans en Pieter du Toit, albei op hierdie forum het baie ervaring hiermee. Gesels met hulle. Jy sal regkom.

Groetnis
JG Shields

Gents thanks,

Thanks for th replys and the info given. I have cleaned the MAF and the intercooler, I found that the fins were bent on the intercooler so I sat there on Sat afternoon and straightend them. WoW what a difference a new vehicle, can now start smiling again ( for Cams).
Just a few more questions as I have never driven a vehicle fitted with a EGT, This is my first turbo diesel that I have owned ( I have worked with Turbo Cruisers for the last 5 years) so.
1. How will it benifit me to fit a EGT
2 Can I fit it myself??
3 Where do I get one.
4. If I fit a EGT can I or must I fit a chip? If so what will the benifits be?
5. LAST BUT not least WHO is good with Turbo Diesels in Durbs / Pinetown area ???? This one is a big HELP PLEASE.

Thanks again in advance for the great info one gets.

Danie

Danie the following
1) Re. Benefit, it will not only reduce the risk of cooking your motor and turbo but will prevent it happening, the other benefit , it reduces your ave. consumption cause you dont overfuel at all.It also teaches yoou HOW to drive a diesel.
2) Fitment , relatively easy, only hassle I had , the turbo shield is a pain to take off, needs some cutting and grinding to get back .If you want to put it back. You also need somebody that can weld the thermo couple fitting insitu just an inch behind the turbo on the dump pie ie. post turbo is easier here than pre
3)You can buy the MADMAN system (excellent)or get one from any instrumentation suplliers(much cheaper) , a normal temp. 12v display unit with a thermo probe that they use in kilns, aviation etc etc.
4) Chip ??? I will never do it , if its for better performance ? The saying goes if you need horses you need hay = overfueling = bang!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Frans is the guy to get this answer from .
5)Dbn/Pinetown. Dont know any

Thermo couple installed post turbo

Gauge installed below the radio, power taken from aux. socket next to cig lighter

Gauge from Zenith instrumentation Dbn

Koos ,

Thanks for the details reply, great stuff, I recon that I can weld that my self and do the fitment myself.

What temp ranges would be good to run in, as I do tow my CJ around when I go camping and playing.

What would a good range for towing and a good range for normal road use be ??

Thanks again for the great info and pics.

Just wish that I could find somone that knows trolls here in Durbs. I could try Steve's Auto Clinic ?

Have a Great one in His name .

Danie

If I could just add my here...

I've got a 4.2D (D for donkey ) Patrol.
I've cosen that motor specifically becasue I don't want turbo drama.
But different strokes for different folks, right...

I got the chance to drive both the 4.2Tdi and the 3.0L
The 4.2 is lazy compared to the 3.0L, but the turbo on the 4.2 is at quite a low pressure (for durability reasons)

I've had turbo diesels in the past and they've served me well, but driving style and knowing your engine is a must !!!
NEVER tow or drive on a long uphill in 5th gear...NEVER !
If you labour the motor, the EGT climbs sky high ! (around 750 deg. C)
Rather use 4th gear for hard work and save the motor.

I fitted an EGT to my Ford Ranger I had, and it was an eye opener to see exactly what goes on with your motor.
Always let your vehicle idle warm in the mornings before setting off, for roughly 3 minutes to lubricate the turbo sufficiently and warm it up.
Always idle your turbo down cool after driving for about 3-5 minutes (to prevent the oil in the turbo from boiling after shut down) and avoid driving it hard into the revs for a while before coming to a stop.
Obviously, once you've added the EGT, you can rely on it to tell you when it's safe to switch off, etc. (230 deg. C is usually safe to switch off)
An EGT is a must for any turbo diesel car !

ONLY use Caltex Delo 400 motor oil !!!
It's the highest Ci rated oil on the market. It was specifically designed for turbo diesel motors under extreme wear conditions like heavy industry, and I swear by it !

On your question on the turbo lag issue...
The easiest solution is to cut out the stock exhaust and fit a 63mm mild steel free flowed system.
Yes... it will sound a little bit angry, but not like a 'boy racer'.
It will help your fuel consumption and power.
The increased size in piping also reduces EGT quite alot !!!
MILD STEEL is a must ! It will not rust on a diesel becasue diesel is like a sealant on the metal, and mild steel radiates heat outwards & stainless steel retains heat.

I checked it out, and I think I might have found an engine supplier for you in KZN.
http://www.engineden.co.za/

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Danie, what Dustin have said in the previous post its all so true.
Driving with EGT gauge teaches you to drive a diesel, like never tow uphills or long inclines in 5th, the temp. sky rockets etc.

I only have experiences in post turbo temp.of the ZD 30, remember there is 150-180 deg difference from the air temp before it enters the turbo to where it exits.
My zd30 ran as follows
Empty normal flat road 120km/h @ 250-450 deg
Towing flat 100km/h @ 400-500deg
Towing uphill I always had to lift my foot to never exceed 550 deg, believe me if you do not keep an eye on it you drive only in the danger zone uphill towing a heavy trailer . I also geared to 3rd even if not required cause it kept the EGT down on steep incline.
I also used the gauge is an indicator to swith off , only below 220 deg C

All the other cars sped past you with caravans, boats trailers on tow , and I knew what was happening inside those engines, I actualy did find a Colt overtaking me between Port Shepstone and Kokstad on an steep uphill in January. And turning off at Kokstad to refuel I saw them at the garage parked with bonnet open and the driver on his cell, very demoer in. I told my wife , I am 100% sure I know what wrong!!!!! and why.
Koos