Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

Hi all

As a disclaimer I am a self confessed electro-ignoramus. Electricity is just something I cannot get my head around.

So my issue is a clicking battery box... the solenoid on the HCDP DC-DC charger is continuously kicking in and out. The manufacturer says that is due to the alternator output dropping below 13V which is where it stops charging to save the cars battery.

Apparently the fact that it is a 110A alternator makes no difference if the voltage is less than 13V from the alternator.

I have not directly measured the Voltage and will this week-end but it appears that my alternator is not putting out the required Voltage. Should I be worried?

DITTI TO: "As a disclaimer I am a self confessed electro-ignoramus."

On my previous 3.0GL I started having ABS and airbag warning lights whilst in Namibia. Never battery/charging light. Long storey short apparently the alternator was periodically not putting out 13 Volt but (seemingtly more importantly) not putting out the correct amps. Destroyed a 14 month old crank battery. I would definitely have an auto electrician interrogate what is actually happening before the financial pain gets greater than it need be.

Sounds like an alternator "control unit" that is staring to pack up. Have a auto eleci check it out for you.

It is either as already stated a faulty alternator, or possibly far too thin cables between the battery box and the front end.

If you have an alternator, put the voltmeter on the main battery terminals with the engine running, and check. You should be seeing somewhere around 13.8 Volts.

If you see less than 13.6, you have an alternator problem. If you have more than that, repeat the test at the input terminals of your HCDP unit. If the voltage there is substantially less than at the main battery, your wires are too thin.

Thanks i will look into this. The supplier of the battery box also supplies the cables 10mm if I recall can they have no issues similar to mine.

The one thing that also happens is I occasionally hook up the solar panel to the box. The 180W panels through a MPPT controller have no issue running the fridge and charging the battery in the caravan. But when hooked to the box I get a clicking same as when it is charged from the Patrol.

How available are alternators for the Patrols? How difficult are they to change?

I am prepping for a trip to Kaokoland in November and will only have a week at home to sort all this out.

You probably don't need a whole new alternator, just a voltage regulator or possibly brushes. May be a good idea to replace the bearings if they have to strip it anyway (some alternators need to be stripped to replace the regulator and bushes, others don't. I am not sure which is fitted to the 4.8).

Any decent auto electrician should be able to do it in a day.

I doubt one is supposed to plug the solar panel into the DC/DC charger directly?

Interesting, Frans Fourie tests the alternator charging when they services teh vehicle and it was 13.7. It was clicking during that time (but not as bad).

Anyone have recommendations for DCDC chargers? I am thinking of turfing the one on the box and getting a ctek

I'm very happy with my WRND. I don't think it has any relays so no clicking noises. I've not seen any issues with it staying on while the Patrol is running. I also have it on my battery box in the back.

I love my C-Tek 250 DS. You can pug your solar directly onto the unit as well. They are not cheap though, but I've had only good service from mine.

C tec for the win .....very cool kit ask mamba he says very well buid kit he repaired Dawids one after big short