Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

So did a trail on saterday and as I turned to my drive way I heard the rear wheels chirping. It feels like the diff lock is engaged but I then reversed into the driveway and I have a steep drive way and the one wheel spun on a wet patch. So now confused. The 4x4 lever is full forward and no lights indicating the diff loc or 4x4 is engaged.

I drove to a gravel patch and tried to engage difflock. Couldnt get it to engage. Confirmed there is definitly wind up on the rear diff.

I swapped the vaccum tubes for the difflock and it made no difference.

Any ideas? Booked at gearmax on friday to have a look. What can I trouble shoot?

If a wheel is spinning, it's definately not the diff lock.

Any chance 4x4 is still engaged, as this will also cause drivetrain wind-up?

Sounds to me like it hasn't disengaged 4wd properly.

Does not sound like a diff-lock issue, or it would have squeals like a pig on the way home and going round bends/traffic light corner turns... but please keep us posted.

I'm sure you have tried this but shift in and out of 4wd on a gravel/loose surface,... even on a grass patch/field.

Just move your selectors again do reverse and watch the light on the dash ...put in 4l and then take out sounds like you have drive train wind up

Had it at gear max. And the difflock is stuck engaged. The solenoid is sucking on the top hose regardless of the switch position. It clicks but doesnt do anything.

They could not disengaged the difflock as it is stuck. Vaccuum is goinv to the rear but it wont unlock.

I assume that driving home with the diff locked broke something. Really annoying is the light shows it is not engaged.

Anyway I will be away for a month and take it in to have it opened up when I get back.

I assume they did try swithcing the pipes at the actuator (at the rear axle)?

Can't really think what can break as a result of having it engaged that would cause this.

Yes they swapped them.

Please let us know what they find?

Where can I get a new solenoid? I an working under the assumption that the rear diff section can be repaired. Not having it open means not knowing if I should just go with a whole new ARB unit or repair the existing set up.

Lets say the diff is totalled. I would have to get an OEM internals and the solenoild vs. 27K for an ARB set up.

What is the damage for an OEM solenoid and the diff internals?

Will the lockright I am currently shipping for the front diff go in the back?