Y60 Petrol Patrol Settings

[Rudolph]

Hi All,

Playing around lately with the new Weber 38 carburettor and getting the optimum settings, I have a few questions for other Y60 petrol owners for comparison and discussion. According to the service manual the timing should be between 9 - 11 deg, I have found that mine is running best at 14 deg, does the altitute in Gauteng play a roll? What is the other owners timing set at? And then also according to the service manual the spark plugs to be used is the standard BP5ES splug, which is the non-resistor plug, some mechanics told me to use the BPR6ES resistor plug, I decided to stay with what the manual says and set the gap at 0.83mm. What spark plugs does the other owners use, and is there any benefit in using the resistor plugs rather than the non-resistor plugs, will there be a difference in performance using either or?

Thanks.
Rudolph

[Peter Connan]

Hello Rudolph

I have stuck to the specs for ignition advance, because while increasing advance will make the car run better most of the time, pre-ignition can cause severe damage.
I have tried BPR6ES plugs, but have not really noticed any difference. I do increase plug gaps to about 1mm.

By the way, are you still using the altitude compensator with the Weber?

[Dolf]

Rudolph,

I installed the Ignitor, replaced the points. Used BPR6ES spark plugs with 0.80mm setting and timing = 10 degrees. Resisotor versus Non resistor, pretty sure that it will have no differrence on performance, only radio/electronic interference at most.

Also follow your Weber installation and lessons learned!!

[Rudolph]

Thanks,

Peter, yes we have removed the altitude compensator. Setting the timing at 11deg it was misfiring, scary when that big motor starts to misfire. With the 1mm gap will you get better ignition of the fuel?

Cheers
Rudolph

[Peter Connan]

Rudolph I have been told by two very experienced dyno tuners (Dennis McBeath from Alpine and Maurice Rosenberg of Auto Rosen) that opening the gap does that here on the highveld, on almost all engines.

Under what conditions does it miss? is the vacuum advance working correctly?

[tour de frans]

Good day
Some input ,if I may.I want to share some of my dyno experience regarding timeing.
Timeing,a very important "thing" on any engine.
It not only determain when to fire the sparkplugs,but has a direct relation with performance and consumption.
First understand this; WOT-wide open throttle:no vacuum in engine.Part throttle: creates vacuum in engine.
Basic there are three timeing settings on a engine.Idle,part throttle and wot.
So setting your timeing on 10 or 14 or 8 deg on idle,means idle timeing and that is called base timing.But what is the timeing when you drive down the road.You dont idle down the road.The timeing need to advance.So, on a distributor car it wil have a mechanical advance and on some a vacuum advance to.
If you have a advance timeing Light,you will see what I say.
If your car idle at 10 deg with no vacuum pipe connect to the vacuum advance.And you rev it to 3000rpm in neutral.your timeing should advance to 28deg or 30deg.Lets say 30deg.So the base timeing are 10deg and the mechanical are + 20 deg.For the coast it is fine,but for inland you can go up with the timeing.
Let the car idle and set the base timeing to 12 deg.And you should find 32deg again at 3000rpm.
What I do is I set the timeing to the desired timeing at 3000rpm,and then at idle I look what the timeing end up at.
If the idle are,let say at 15 or 17 or even at 1 deg the disributor need to be checked out.Imagine your distibutor are not ok and you set your timeing at 10deg according what the book says.But the mechanical only advance the timeing to 20deg.That is to slow,the engine wont perform and your fuel bill wont look nice.But your timeing are right,according to book.That is why a workshop or yourself need to set timeing with a advance timeing light,so you can see the timeing work.
Now your timeing is set.put back the vacuumadvance pipe.
A vacuum-advance give you fuel consumption,that is all ,not power.It only work when you are driving part throttle.Remember part throttle has vacuum and full throttle has no vacuum.A vacuum advance work with vacuum.
So with your timeing set at 32deg inland at 3000rpm with no vacuum pipe on the vacuum advance,put back the pipe and rev to 3000rpm again.The timeing should be 42 to 45 deg.
To follow,struggle to type a long letter.

[tour de frans]

With the timeing set to what I said,your car will be good.Check what the makers say aboud their settings,it will show all the timing's.
I hope the diffirant timeing make sence.40deg + timeing dont make sence to,but for part throttle it will make the car or engine feel strong,and that will save fuel.When you go wot the vacuum fall away and the timeing will stay at the mechanical setting when you need to go faster.And the same for idle.

The resister plugs will only help for a radio or your tellevision,when you arrive at home.Stay with the makers spark plug.If it is in your case a 5es,use it.The R range is the resistor and the 5 is the heat range in a NGK plug range.The higher the number the cooler the plug.So your plugs are hot.A 7 would be cool and a 8 colder and for racing.Stick with the 5,expecily with our fuel...
Hope this help
Rdgs
Frans.

[tour de frans]

O and please make sure your timeing marks on the engine are right and clean.Also make sure that zero are zero.
cheers.

[Rudolph]

Thank you Frans, this is very helpfull and informative.

Peter, is was misfiring when I put foot down, "full throttle" in 2nd and 3rd gear and in 4th gear in full throttle loss in power like pining. The advance is working fine. Increasing the timing to 14deg at idle sorted out the misfiring.

Cheers
Rudolph

[Peter Connan]

Thanks Frans

Just two questions:
1) Is there an easy way of making sure the mark is on zero without having to take the head off to get to the piston with a dial gauge?
2) Are the figures you have given usable for all petrol engines?

Thanks
Peter