Front Diff Oil Leak

[PatrolNW]

My patrol has a oil leak on the front differential at the birfield joint, does anyone know of a reputable person or workshop that can replace the all the oil seals and bearings without costing as much as the patrol is worth or causing more damage during the fix than at the moment.

Any advice will be appreciated.

[Kagiso II]

Which city / dorp you stay in?

[PatrolNW]

Die kar is in Rustenburg, Noord Wes maar Pretoria en omliggende areas is nie n probleem nie.

Dankie

[Kagiso II]

http://www.yellowpages.co.za/search.jsp ... earch=Find#

of probeer Paul by Menlyn : Menlyn Brake & Clutch
Serving Pretoria area serving
374 Roslyn St
waterkloof Glen
pretoria

012 9987795
category: brake Service

[Tinus lotz]

probeer graham cumming hy is in valhala o126513447

[Peter Connan]

Yesterday I noticed that I now have the same problem.

assuming I keep the diff oil topped up, am I likely to cause any other damage by operating the car like this for a week or two? For example is it likely that the diff oil will wash out the grease in the actual Birfield or CV joint.

Thanks
PC

[marakasmalan]

Het julle toe die probleme kon oplos en weet iemand wat die koste verbonde aan daardie birfield joint seëls se vervanging is?

Wie het toe aan julle trollies gewerk en was julle gelukkig met die vakmanskap en diens?

Dankie!

[Peter Connan]

Marius I am currently doing it myself. Because of my own opportunism and bad planning it is taking a bit longer than it should have (I was hoping I could get the seals from BMG but they are all Nissan-only special parts). When I am finished, I will post a thread with all the relevant part numbers that I have managed to uncover, but the basics are as follows:

If you only need to fix this oil leak, you can remove the brake calipers, the steering ball joints and the hub sweep seals (which consists of three parts pluss two half-rings retaining them). Of the eight bolts involved, one is the steering end stop adjuster. Make sure the nut and bolt retain the same relative orientation during the whole process so that the adjustment remains correct, then remove the knuckle flange bearings. Keep the shims in the same positions when re-assembling unless you replace the bearings. The shaft can then be drawn out with the hub etc. Next you will have to prise the seal out of the end of the axle tube, which is quite tricky as it is so deep inside. I used two claws from my Raco three-tooth puller, bolted together, and a claw hammer pulling on this.

The oil seal is only available fromn the agents and the part number is N4053301J00. Price is R220.96 at the moment.

However I decided to take everything apart, clean it all and re-grease from scratch. I will post all the costs and part numbers for this later on, but the cost will be around R1000.00 for the seals, and another cuopla hundred bucks for the grease and oil, and at least a day to do it unless you have a parts washing machine.

[Kagiso II]

P/ter - kon jy toe die dinge ge-strip kry - en het jy onthou om kiekies te neem?

[Peter Connan]

Sorry for the late reply guys. Also, I didn't take any photos, as my hands were constantly full of grease.

However, this guy did: http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthre ... t=cv+joint

FAexpl.JPG (97.72 KiB) Viewed 7839 times

There are three seals that will need to be replaced if you do this job and grease the wheelbearings, and none of the three seem to be available from the bearing specialists.
The inner oil seal (top row, second item in drawing) seems to be a specialist part which I have not managed to source elsewhere. It is 34 x 44 x 8mm and Nissan's part number is N405330J00.
The grease seal on the inside of the knuckle flange (top row item 6) and the grease seal on the inside of the wheel hub (second row second item) are also Nissan-only. The part numbers are N4023201J00 and N40227C8200 (not sure which is which)

Of the bearings in the assembly, only one is special. This is the inner or large wheel bearing (second row third and fourth items). It is a KOYO 33110JRYA2. This is a standard 33110JR taper roller bearing (85 x 50 x 26mm) but the inner corner which presses against the knuckle spindle has had the radius ground to 4.5mm. This can be sourced through Nissan (about R830.00), special import through Bearing International (R902.00) or you can buy a standard 33110JR (R280)and have the corner ground by an engineering shop (about R200-250?).

The outer wheel bearing (second row items 6 & 7) is a standard imperial-sized taper roller bearing, 41.275 x 73.431 x 23.012mm. Koyo part numbers are: Cone LM501349, Cup LM501311.

The needle roller bearing (first row, item 7) is a 42 x 35 x 16mm, KOYO part number BTM3516.

I did not remove the knuckle bearings.

There was one other problem though: There is a lock washer between the two wheel bearing nuts (second row, item10), which is bent to keep the two nuts from turning. This washer must be replaced because the tab which fits into the groove in the knuckle flange is damaged when you remove it. My local Nissan agents were entirely unsucsesful in identifying this part, and after three weeks of ordering one wrong part after another I finally made my own. I modified the design to have two much more substantial tabs bent into the slots, in the hope that in this way it will be re-usable although it would still be better to replace them. The drawing is available for anybody who wants it.

Please note that the abovementioned washer is only used in the manual locking hub assembly, the automatic hub appears to have a different system.

All the above part numbers are for the petrol-engined Y60 patrols, and I am not sure twhether the Y61's are the same. I do know that the Birfield joints are not the same in the Y60 as in the Y61, as the Y61's are larger diameter with flats to allow removal but the Y60's don't have these flats.