Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

285 75 16 works well and looks good ! Try a 3 inch soft ride lift kit that will settle at 50mm and fit air jackers to lift the back if loaded or towing then you get 33 tires with no problems

Hi Thinus
These "Soft ride lift kits" and "Air Jackers" any recommendations as far as brand goes and indication of cost?

Regards
Jaco

Jaco, all the major suspension suppliers have different strengths of springs for any specific lift (normally three "load ratings").

So go with your previous idea of OME or TJM. Personally, I would go for a 2"lift, as I don't think a quality set will settle that much, and the lift specified is supposed to include the settle anyway.

You have options here, but they all coma at a cost, and the best setup depends on your intended use.

Like Tinus, I am a big fan of air helpers, because this gives you the best possible ride under all conditions, and allows you to still carry a heavy load and tow a heavy trailer without dragging the tail around.

If you want to do this, then specify the softest rear springs in the range, and the softest fronts as well unless you intend fitting a bull bar and winch, in which case you will need stronger front springs. And then take your car to ride-on-air for the air jackers. Here as well you will be given various options, each with it's own cost attached. I think the basic kit consisting of air helpers with external air points that you pump up with you compressor (or the garage's) should come to around R7k. You could also go further and have a built-in compressor and switches where you can adjust the pressures from inside the car.

Personally, I think the ultimate is a (custom) system where you start off with the basic system, then modify it to connect it to your TPMS, and then add a electric 2/3 way solenoid with large pipes (at least 10mm) to couple between the two, in such a way that when the solenoid is de-energised (switched off) the helpers are isolated from each other, and when the solenoid is energised they are coupled together. And then remove the rear anti-roll bar.

When the helpers are isolated and inflated, they act like anti-roll bars, and when they are connected, they actually should improve axle articulation and traction in difficult terrain.

If you decide against the air helpers, just choose springs suitable for the purpose you want to use the car for.

Jaco,


Contact my partner Herman at 012 653 8834. They are only made for standard and 50mm lifts. Any more than that and you will not be able to fit them. Also note that they will also limit your articulation at the rear.


Regards

Peter Connan wrote:Jaco, all the major suspension suppliers have different strengths of springs for any specific lift (normally three "load ratings").

So go with your previous idea of OME or TJM. Personally, I would go for a 2"lift, as I don't think a quality set will settle that much, and the lift specified is supposed to include the settle anyway.

You have options here, but they all coma at a cost, and the best setup depends on your intended use.

Like Tinus, I am a big fan of air helpers, because this gives you the best possible ride under all conditions, and allows you to still carry a heavy load and tow a heavy trailer without dragging the tail around.

If you want to do this, then specify the softest rear springs in the range, and the softest fronts as well unless you intend fitting a bull bar and winch, in which case you will need stronger front springs. And then take your car to ride-on-air for the air jackers. Here as well you will be given various options, each with it's own cost attached. I think the basic kit consisting of air helpers with external air points that you pump up with you compressor (or the garage's) should come to around R7k. You could also go further and have a built-in compressor and switches where you can adjust the pressures from inside the car.

Personally, I think the ultimate is a (custom) system where you start off with the basic system, then modify it to connect it to your TPMS, and then add a electric 2/3 way solenoid with large pipes (at least 10mm) to couple between the two, in such a way that when the solenoid is de-energised (switched off) the helpers are isolated from each other, and when the solenoid is energised they are coupled together. And then remove the rear anti-roll bar.

When the helpers are isolated and inflated, they act like anti-roll bars, and when they are connected, they actually should improve axle articulation and traction in difficult terrain.

If you decide against the air helpers, just choose springs suitable for the purpose you want to use the car for.

Peter,

Currently on GU's only available for STD suspension. Price is around half of what you are quoting for the air helpers fitted. Where did you get the price. Also they do hamper articulation as when fully inflated they limit the spring extension. When deflating them you need to watch that you do not go to low as this will result in the helper being damaged.

Regards

Piet and grant sum it up very well !!!but when u need not tow the airhelpers are not hard and doesn't halter you at all !!it means you have a lekke ride in all condisions :mytwocents:herman fitted mine and did a great job

Back to the standard stuff, replacing the shocks with either TJM or OME, does one have to consider the replacement of the coil springs as well, assuming the springs are still in good condition. Any impact that might have a negative influence on the shocks?

Thanks Guys
again the info far exceeds my initial requirements, I think however that I should stick with the standard 2" OME in a "medium" duty ride set-up. And then fit the 285/75/16 ATs.
As a start

Dolf, springs and shocks do totally different jobs, so old springs should never be able to damage shocks, with the proviso that the bump stops are still fine.

However, springs and shocks should be matched for best results. This is because the spring and weight combination has a "frequancy", and the shock's major job is to control that frequancy.

However, there is some room for error here, and I reckon you should be OK.

Dolf
I am no expert but even on a patrol there is a thing called metal fittuge when u spend the money make it worth your while !
The aftermaket coils and shocks works better as a set but that is just my opinion