I also bought it from canopy center in Silvertonricster wrote:That gas strut on the door.... where did you get the swivel bracket that fixes to the body? I have a weak gas strut lying in my garage with the swivel that can connect to the door, but not the other one.
Beginners Patrol
- TijmenvdS
- Senior Member
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- Joined: 23 Nov 2016 06:25
- Full Name: Tijmen van der Steenhoven
- Nickname: Tijmen
- Home Town: Pretoria
- Current 4x4: 1997 Patrol TD42 GQ ST
Chevrolet 1974 K10 402 V8 - Home Language: Afrikaans
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Re: Beginners Patrol
- TijmenvdS
- Senior Member
- Posts: 303
- Joined: 23 Nov 2016 06:25
- Full Name: Tijmen van der Steenhoven
- Nickname: Tijmen
- Home Town: Pretoria
- Current 4x4: 1997 Patrol TD42 GQ ST
Chevrolet 1974 K10 402 V8 - Home Language: Afrikaans
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Re: Beginners Patrol
I have been rethinking the dual battery strategy, there are two options: the direct connect isolator which I have installed or the dc to dc charger ranging from R3000 to R6000 and more for the c-tek one. In the December issue of Drive Out they tested the two systems equally and determined that the dc to dc charger exceeds only after 6 hours of constant driving. It makes sense since the dc to dc are not rated above 30A where a solenoid connect directly and can handle as much as the alternator can output.
Contrary to the December issue of SA4x4 on the trip of the Pajero's and Conquerors the stated that the Pajero has a "smart alternator" and keeps their batteries well charged, while complaining in the same breath that their batteries did not charge well because they were driving slow and rock crawling most of the day. In the tips section the said it is well worth investing in a dc to dc charger because it charges quicker than a direct connection. But their batteries did not charge properly.
So clearly the "smart alternator" and the dc to dc does not work wel together. a dc to dc can charge a more fully than a alternator can since it can bulk charge and float charge, equally I am sure the "smart alternator" can charge the batteries just as well but I believe they were working against each-other.
I believe the best combination would be to install a solenoid with the timing function such as National Luna for about R1000 for the solinoid and then invest in a good 220v charger for when you are at home or camping at a location with 220v. With a combination of possibly solar. My opinion is just after analyzing the results of Drive Out (attached picture), is 10Ah worth an extra R2000?
I have also been thinking that I am sure if i tinkered with a solar controller I would be able to use it for a dc to dc charger since they are much cheaper and both of them do similar jobs of adjusting input wattage to the correct voltage an amperage to charge the battery more efficiently. If one is determined to use a dc to dc.
Please note this in my opinion.
I would love to hear what your opinion is and what setup you installed.
Contrary to the December issue of SA4x4 on the trip of the Pajero's and Conquerors the stated that the Pajero has a "smart alternator" and keeps their batteries well charged, while complaining in the same breath that their batteries did not charge well because they were driving slow and rock crawling most of the day. In the tips section the said it is well worth investing in a dc to dc charger because it charges quicker than a direct connection. But their batteries did not charge properly.
So clearly the "smart alternator" and the dc to dc does not work wel together. a dc to dc can charge a more fully than a alternator can since it can bulk charge and float charge, equally I am sure the "smart alternator" can charge the batteries just as well but I believe they were working against each-other.
I believe the best combination would be to install a solenoid with the timing function such as National Luna for about R1000 for the solinoid and then invest in a good 220v charger for when you are at home or camping at a location with 220v. With a combination of possibly solar. My opinion is just after analyzing the results of Drive Out (attached picture), is 10Ah worth an extra R2000?
I have also been thinking that I am sure if i tinkered with a solar controller I would be able to use it for a dc to dc charger since they are much cheaper and both of them do similar jobs of adjusting input wattage to the correct voltage an amperage to charge the battery more efficiently. If one is determined to use a dc to dc.
Please note this in my opinion.
I would love to hear what your opinion is and what setup you installed.
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- Peter Connan
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Re: Beginners Patrol
I did not read this particular test, but bear in mind that a test can be designed to "prove" that a series land-rover is better than a Y61.
I believe the choice of charger depends very much on the type of battery you fit as the second battery.
A deep-cycle battery will not normally charge fully from a vehicle alternator, no matter how smart. The reason is that a deep-cycle wants to charge at relatively higher voltage than a standard crank battery, which is what the alternator is designed for, and if the voltage is raised than that will shorten the life of the car's crank battery. The same is true to a slightly lesser extent of a lead crystal battery.
I believe that, if you want to use a deep-cycle or lead-drystal battery, you need to use a Dc-Dc charger for best results.
On the other hand, if you want to use a crank battery as your second battery, you are probably better off connecting it straight to the alternator (via a solenoid or whatever other method takes your fancy).
The thing is that, although a direct connection may charge even a deep-cycle faster if it is very flat, you won't get it past 80% of capacity, which means you start every night at a disadvantage. Also, the deep-cycle batteries don't like charging at very high rates, and charging them quickly will reduce their life expectancy.
There are two more things I need to say specifically about the National Luna system. Firstly, I have personally seen a voltage drop of up to 1v over the solenoid they use once it gets a couple of years old, and secondly, once the voltage of the second battery drops below the switch-off point, the National Luna system doesn't want to charge. It drops out if the amperage gets too high. It is possible to gyppo the system by connecting the two low-current poles of the solenoid together. If a direct-charge system is required, I much prefer the PBE system.
Also, if considering a Dc-Dc system, have a look at HCdP. Much more affordable than Ctech.
I believe the choice of charger depends very much on the type of battery you fit as the second battery.
A deep-cycle battery will not normally charge fully from a vehicle alternator, no matter how smart. The reason is that a deep-cycle wants to charge at relatively higher voltage than a standard crank battery, which is what the alternator is designed for, and if the voltage is raised than that will shorten the life of the car's crank battery. The same is true to a slightly lesser extent of a lead crystal battery.
I believe that, if you want to use a deep-cycle or lead-drystal battery, you need to use a Dc-Dc charger for best results.
On the other hand, if you want to use a crank battery as your second battery, you are probably better off connecting it straight to the alternator (via a solenoid or whatever other method takes your fancy).
The thing is that, although a direct connection may charge even a deep-cycle faster if it is very flat, you won't get it past 80% of capacity, which means you start every night at a disadvantage. Also, the deep-cycle batteries don't like charging at very high rates, and charging them quickly will reduce their life expectancy.
There are two more things I need to say specifically about the National Luna system. Firstly, I have personally seen a voltage drop of up to 1v over the solenoid they use once it gets a couple of years old, and secondly, once the voltage of the second battery drops below the switch-off point, the National Luna system doesn't want to charge. It drops out if the amperage gets too high. It is possible to gyppo the system by connecting the two low-current poles of the solenoid together. If a direct-charge system is required, I much prefer the PBE system.
Also, if considering a Dc-Dc system, have a look at HCdP. Much more affordable than Ctech.
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
- Kagiso II
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- Current 4x4: 1982 Datsun Safari 2,8 aka LOBO; [1,300,000 Km verby !]
'99 PATROL 4,2 diesel.
2012 Jimny [SWAMBO se Kantoor-toe] - Home Language: AFRIKAANS
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Re: Beginners Patrol
Daai lyk my kompleet soos n P C Bashplate -- ek weet nie of hy op die GU sal pas nie; Hoewel die GQ en GY s'n dieselle is.Bossie L wrote:Ek like daai bashplate. Sal graag die selfde wil doen.
P C = Peter Connan]
Don't bring God down to your level of faith ... bring your faith up to His level!
- TijmenvdS
- Senior Member
- Posts: 303
- Joined: 23 Nov 2016 06:25
- Full Name: Tijmen van der Steenhoven
- Nickname: Tijmen
- Home Town: Pretoria
- Current 4x4: 1997 Patrol TD42 GQ ST
Chevrolet 1974 K10 402 V8 - Home Language: Afrikaans
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Re: Beginners Patrol
Peter ek wardeer jou insette. Ek stem saam. Ek moet erken dat ek agterkom myne laai nie 100% nie soos ek verwag het maar die voordeel van my sisteem met die dik drade is dat ek kan myself jump start sonder om te wag. So is daar maar die voordele en nadele van als. Dis jammer ek het nog nooit van pbe gehoor nie, ek het al ure op die internet spandeer en nog nooit op hulle af gekom nie. Die bietjie wat ek nou oor hulle gelees het klink baie goed. Sal nog diep daar in kyk. Ek wil nog n draai gaan maak by hcdp. Hulle is hier naby.
Die bashplates het ek saam los gekry met die aankoop en die voorste een het motivering nodig gehad van n hammer om die gate mooi op te lyn. Agter kan ek nie uit figure hoe hy pas nie. So dit is moontlik dat dit vir n gq bedoel is. Ek wil nie graag brackets onder die petrol tank bou nie.
Ek het geen idee waar hulle vandaan kom nie of wie hulle gebou het nie.
Die bashplates het ek saam los gekry met die aankoop en die voorste een het motivering nodig gehad van n hammer om die gate mooi op te lyn. Agter kan ek nie uit figure hoe hy pas nie. So dit is moontlik dat dit vir n gq bedoel is. Ek wil nie graag brackets onder die petrol tank bou nie.
Ek het geen idee waar hulle vandaan kom nie of wie hulle gebou het nie.
- Tinus lotz
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Re: Beginners Patrol
Mater daar is te veel goed om te lys oor batteries. ....die kort version is moenie die artikels in die 4x4 tydskrifte altyd glo nie ....die manne probeer maar daar is klomp veranderlikes
1 deep cycle is net goed as jou charge voltage bo 14.8 v is ook kan jy met ideal charge voltage net 20 % max in battery terug sit
Hy is ook net goed om 300 keer te laai so gewoonlik as jy hom in jou kar los begin hy breek na n jaar .
Agm is beter ...lead christal is great 3000 charges en kan drein na 0v sonder problems ....
Die solinoid tipe werk net op sealed lead acid waar jou charge voltage 13.8 voldoende is
1 deep cycle is net goed as jou charge voltage bo 14.8 v is ook kan jy met ideal charge voltage net 20 % max in battery terug sit
Hy is ook net goed om 300 keer te laai so gewoonlik as jy hom in jou kar los begin hy breek na n jaar .
Agm is beter ...lead christal is great 3000 charges en kan drein na 0v sonder problems ....
Die solinoid tipe werk net op sealed lead acid waar jou charge voltage 13.8 voldoende is
- TijmenvdS
- Senior Member
- Posts: 303
- Joined: 23 Nov 2016 06:25
- Full Name: Tijmen van der Steenhoven
- Nickname: Tijmen
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Chevrolet 1974 K10 402 V8 - Home Language: Afrikaans
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Re: Beginners Patrol
Ek het n AGM Sealed Lead acid 200Ah op die oomlik so ek is nie gepla daar oor nie maar my 220v 8a charger is bietjie lig in die broek. Hy sukkel om hom vol te kry. Ek moet erken dat ek n reject vattery het so hy mag dalk nie meer 100% kapasiteit hê nie. Maar hy was cheap so dis oraait.Tinus lotz wrote:Mater daar is te veel goed om te lys oor batteries. ....die kort version is moenie die artikels in die 4x4 tydskrifte altyd glo nie ....die manne probeer maar daar is klomp veranderlikes
1 deep cycle is net goed as jou charge voltage bo 14.8 v is ook kan jy met ideal charge voltage net 20 % max in battery terug sit
Hy is ook net goed om 300 keer te laai so gewoonlik as jy hom in jou kar los begin hy breek na n jaar .
Agm is beter ...lead christal is great 3000 charges en kan drein na 0v sonder problems ....
Die solinoid tipe werk net op sealed lead acid waar jou charge voltage 13.8 voldoende is
- hugejp
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Re: Beginners Patrol
Loving the rear barn door gas strut!
Any chance of a list of parts for the job & size/NM of the strut?
Maybe some measurements too please?
Any chance of a list of parts for the job & size/NM of the strut?
Maybe some measurements too please?
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You CAN with a NISSAN!
Jy KAN met 'n DATSUN!
You CAN with a NISSAN!
Jy KAN met 'n DATSUN!
- Peter Connan
- Moderator
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- Joined: 10 Sep 2010 07:21
- Full Name: Peter Connan
- Nickname: Piet
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Re: Beginners Patrol
Tijmen, daai voorste bash plate is my maaksel. Dit is dan waarskynlik dat die agterste een ook is. Indiendit wel myne is, belowe ek dat dit nie nodig is om brackets te bou nie, hy sal pas.
Ek het PBE stelsel in my eie kar, nou al omtrent ses jaar, en nie 'n enkele klagte nie. Ek het ook nou HCdP se paneel-stelsel in my waentjie ingebou.
Wil jy dalk kom kyk, dan sit ek sommer gou jou skid-plate vir jou op?
Ek het PBE stelsel in my eie kar, nou al omtrent ses jaar, en nie 'n enkele klagte nie. Ek het ook nou HCdP se paneel-stelsel in my waentjie ingebou.
Wil jy dalk kom kyk, dan sit ek sommer gou jou skid-plate vir jou op?
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
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