EGT for 3.0l
- PaulvdMerwe
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- Tinus lotz
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Re: EGT for 3.0l
Jip, its best to install the EGT probe on the manifold before the turbo
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Joshua
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Joshua
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Re: EGT for 3.0l
Thanks for the input,
Just a thought..... From the forum, I noticed that most guys that fitted the probe in the manifold, fitted it in such way that only one or in some cases 2 cylinders are measured, (obviously due to the position that is reachable)
In my case, i fitted the probe right before the flange that joins the manifold and turbo, so all 4 cylinders are measured. surely this must have an impact on the higher readings i receive.
It does not take much for me to reach 650, empty, stock standard vehicle. with a new engine, new injectors, and clean MAS.
Just a thought..... From the forum, I noticed that most guys that fitted the probe in the manifold, fitted it in such way that only one or in some cases 2 cylinders are measured, (obviously due to the position that is reachable)
In my case, i fitted the probe right before the flange that joins the manifold and turbo, so all 4 cylinders are measured. surely this must have an impact on the higher readings i receive.
It does not take much for me to reach 650, empty, stock standard vehicle. with a new engine, new injectors, and clean MAS.
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Re: EGT for 3.0l
Paul you are further away from the fire that burns holes in your pistons ....we try to measure as close to the valve as possible to get a more accurate reading if all is well your cilinders should all have the same compression and same amount of feul ....so same amount of heat on each .there is a difference of up to 150 deg having it before and after the turbo . I really think you need to check your boost and feul mix something not all cool there .....had the same on agarob
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Re: EGT for 3.0l
I dont think the location where you measure will make a big differance on the reading. Like you say you now measure all cylinders, but it will not give a higher reading than when you would just measure one or two cylinders.
The only reason I measure between no 1 and no 2 is because they will run hotter than the rest of the cylinders as they get the least amount of air in theory.
The only reason I measure between no 1 and no 2 is because they will run hotter than the rest of the cylinders as they get the least amount of air in theory.
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- JoshJ
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Re: EGT for 3.0l
Michael wrote:I dont think the location where you measure will make a big differance on the reading. Like you say you now measure all cylinders, but it will not give a higher reading than when you would just measure one or two cylinders.
The only reason I measure between no 1 and no 2 is because they will run hotter than the rest of the cylinders as they get the least amount of air in theory.
I agree. In mine the 2 cilinders at the back get the most heat as they are tucked away in the fire wall. And I also feel that it wont make a difference. Its all about access. If I had my manifold off. I would have put it on the combined flange just before the turbo. But my manifold was not off. So access was my main concern. And having a off centre one is better then not having one at all.
My Egt's also ran high and reached 650 much quicker before I started with mods on the motor. I recon its because the car is very under powered and needs hammering to get it moving. I have uped power and installed a free flow to get rid of hot gasses quicker. I dont have EGT isseus anymore.
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Regards,
Joshua
Regards,
Joshua
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Re: EGT for 3.0l
Hi guys,
Thanks to all of you for your input.
Josh, I must admit that I do not think it is under powered, I don't need to hammer it at all to get going, in fact I hardly touch the accelerator and it goes over the 120 km/h mark. Cruising 130 is no challenge at all. I suppose once one start to kit it out the added weight will make a difference.
I will manage my EGT for now, until I have the boost gauge, then the first thing will be to block of the EGR. Also then I will be able to set the boost, and definitely the 3" pipe.
Thanks to all of you for your input.
Josh, I must admit that I do not think it is under powered, I don't need to hammer it at all to get going, in fact I hardly touch the accelerator and it goes over the 120 km/h mark. Cruising 130 is no challenge at all. I suppose once one start to kit it out the added weight will make a difference.
I will manage my EGT for now, until I have the boost gauge, then the first thing will be to block of the EGR. Also then I will be able to set the boost, and definitely the 3" pipe.
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Re: EGT for 3.0l
Yes. The 33inch tyres and added weight of all the extras rob you blind of power.
I dyno'd after every mod. And am pleased to share that the xhaust. (3inch) made 66nm torqeu difference. So this is a cheap power increase method. And it lowers egt's. So its a win win.
Before any mods i could get 9+km/l easy and pull of in second gear. I only now again after many mods and adjustments can pull of in 2nd or 3rd gear.
I dyno'd after every mod. And am pleased to share that the xhaust. (3inch) made 66nm torqeu difference. So this is a cheap power increase method. And it lowers egt's. So its a win win.
Before any mods i could get 9+km/l easy and pull of in second gear. I only now again after many mods and adjustments can pull of in 2nd or 3rd gear.
Being alive is a Blessing!!
Regards,
Joshua
Regards,
Joshua
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Re: EGT for 3.0l
My probe is post turbo and I run foot flat as hard as I can up to about 560deg. There is I read on the ozzie forums about 100deg between pre and post turbo. Interesting is what do you get at co stand 1ookm/HR flat road cruise. I run at about 290deg. That's with 12psi max boost set on dawes valve and a 3" exhaust.
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