What is good enough?

[ricster]

Where can one get them there disconnects??

[Peter Connan]

Cedrick, I have been looking into this for a while, but have not gotten around to making anything yet.

However, bearing man do sell the correct ball joints you need. These are not rod-end bearings, but proper sealed ball joints like the standard ones. They can be bought with a female thread on the "fixed" end, thus you do not need female threaded bar. If I remember correctly, I was quoted about R300 say six months ago. It is made by IKO, called an L-ball and you need 10mm ones, part no. LHSA10.

If you want to make disconnectable ones, all you do is drill the thread out. Then cut the vertical link bit from a long high-tensile M10 bolt which is only partially threaded. Make the length so that when the unthreaded bit has been pushed all the way into the ball joint from which you have drilled the threads, and the threaded part is mounted correctly on the chassis in it's rubber, the sway-bar's ends are horizontal. Assemble the ball joint and bolt shaft in the workshop, and drill two 5mm holes through the stub so that they go through both the bolt and the ball-joint. From a bolt-and-nut shop, buy 10 5mm "R-clips". Assemble and bob's your uncle.

bjM10M.jpg (45.39 KiB) Viewed 2237 times

[ricster]

Silly question.... I presume there is a bit of movement between the threaded rod seated inside the now un-threaded L-ball. will the "R" clip be strong enough to handler the shearing force when one wheel is up and the other down. This whole set up looks brilliant, so I just want to make sure. Me thinks me should look at making a set one of these days.

Thanks for the part numbers and info Peter !!!!

[Peter Connan]

Cedrick, the part of the bolt going into the ball joint must be unthreaded, otherwise there is not enough material left there.

You must use two R-clips per side, but they together are stronger than what's left of the bolt. They should be quite strong enough, and are stronger than commercially available quick-disconnects I have seen.

[ricster]

Sorry ...yes the thread must be removed from the threaded rod itself. This makes sense. And with the 2 pins through the rod and ball joint, which I didn't see before ( helps if one reads the post properly...ha ha) makes good sense too

[Alex Roux]

Hi Peter

I understand super flex arms is already a project that someone (you?) is working on?
To add to that custom quick disconnects that are stronger than commercially available, we could make some awsome rock crawlers out of our trols...

Peter, are you thinking in this line?

I will be your first customer on the list.

[Peter Connan]

Alex, I am certainly thinking along these lines.

Unfortunately, I am currently badly strapped for cash, and cannot afford to use myself as a guineapig.

Any volunteers?

[Alex Roux]

How much are we looking at?

Else PM me

[Izak]

Hello

I took the stabilizer arm off and for now, in town, driving as slowly as I do, I could not really feel a difference in the drive quality of the Patrol.

Tried to straighten the links but, and here Peter was correct in his comment on the crack in the arm, those things are made out of cast iron or something similar because the first effort at straighten, it broke. Seem to be very brittle in the way that it broke, normal welding does not work. Tried to weld it just to see if it would work, I had no intention of using it but I had to try.

So for now it will have to remain as is until I can find the "time ($$$$)" for replacements parts or if I decide to go the detachable route as suggested.

Have a whale of a weekend, I am going to the Extreme Off road show on Saturday in Meyerton.

[Izak]

Vir my! This will be good enough