Browne Davis Long Range Fuel Tanks

[Alex Roux]

I do not think sand will do damage.

What is the tank's capacity?

[Tinus lotz]

I fixed two patrols in moz with that problem mud sand ect goes in there and stuff up the pipes had to pratley steel them rusted to hell
Mabe a cover of some sort ?

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[Kirbster]

I do not think sand will do damage.

What is the tank's capacity?

250lt in total.

[biggles]

I fixed two patrols in moz with that problem mud sand ect goes in there and stuff up the pipes had to pratley steel them rusted to hell
Mabe a cover of some sort ?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

I think you posted pictures a while back of one of those? The build up was because the aftermarket tanks had a "cup" around the pump flange that collected debris and water that just sat there. The Brown Davis has specifically designed them so that water will run out from around the pump flange.

So in this case water will not collect around the flange causing corrosion and a few water crossings should clear out any collected sand.

[biggles]

Just looking at the pictures and I am impressed. Look at how the brackets are welded on!! and all the little gussets on every stress point.

I see the pump flange is "submerged" when the tank is at full capacity. I see in some places the breather is lower than the high points... I bet you will have to rock the troll abit to get all the petrol in!!

I am very impressed so far.

[hugejp]

The tanks look pretty good!



I already have a stainless long-range under my trol, but a larger sub-tank would be a welcome addition...

At this stage I can cram 180L in both tanks if I brim them.

A little more would always be welcome.

Wasnt there talk of a locally produced extended sub-tank?

[Kirbster]

Hi Guys

I've attached some more pictures I took today to show the profile of the tanks to show where they stand proud of the chassis under the Troll.

You'll see that they dont hang too low below the vehicle when you consider their associated storage capacity which goes to show much space they utilise up into the cavity within the chassis as opposed to hanging too far down, which is a concern that I had when I bought them.

You may just notice that I've swopped the tail shaft around so that the smaller diameter part of the shaft is now connected to the transfer case as opposed to the differential. I did this because I noticed that after I had lifted the car even higher with a new coil kit that the tail shaft had clear abrasions from knocking the cross member of the chassis. Swopping the shaft around has nothing to do with fitting the tanks.

What I have noticed is that the fuel gauge for the auxiliary tank only goes half way up when the tank is full. We didnt have enough time to fix this due to the Covid-19 shut down, but will take another shot at seeing Iif we can fix it when R&D opens again.

I've not yet had a chance to drive sufficient distance to quantify my additional range, because after fitting the tanks it went back into R&D about 2 weeks later to have some more modifications done to it and now of course we can't drive much due to the lock down.

[Peter Connan]

I think the rear tank is fine. Probably no lower than mine.

The sub-tank though... That's probably going to take a knock or two if you do serious trails. Mine is exactly level with the bottom of the chassis rails and that has a nice gouge in it.

My tail-shaft is also reversed. Was like that when I got the car. I actually wonder why that's not the standard orientation...

[Kirbster]

I think the rear tank is fine. Probably no lower than mine.

The sub-tank though... That's probably going to take a knock or two if you do serious trails. Mine is exactly level with the bottom of the chassis rails and that has a nice gouge in it.

My tail-shaft is also reversed. Was like that when I got the car. I actually wonder why that's not the standard orientation...

Hi Peter

Did you have to fiddle with the fuel float in your aux tank to calibrate the fuel gauge?

[Peter Connan]

No fuel gauge in my aux tank.