4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Engines and Engine Systems
User avatar
Dungbeetle
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 279
Joined: 28 Jun 2009 08:46
Full Name: Rudolf
Nickname: Dungbeetle
Home Town: Ellisras
Current 4x4: 2000 Patrol 4.2GL Wagon old and wise at 880 000 km
2014 Patrol 3.0GL CRD reaching puberty at 150 000 km
Home Language: Afr
Has thanked: 60 times
Been thanked: 67 times

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Post by Dungbeetle »

Florian320 wrote: 13 Dec 2019 08:19 ..............n that the free wheeling mechanism of the a/c compressor also could have a very slight screeching sound.
Can that one be changed alone or would that mean a new compressor?

I‘d like to get that area done in one move when I have it worked on...
I would be very surprised if that is shod - Mine has 20 years 843000 km and still OK

and - worn belts that pull into grove type pulleys also moan - at the pulley
2000 Patrol GL 4.2D - Still strong just short of 900 THOUSAND KILOMEEEEEEEEEEEEEETERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRSSSSSSSSSSSSS - Daily Tractor
2014 CRD at 170k km - Sunday Tractor
2012 NP300 DC - platkar
Florian320
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 189
Joined: 19 Nov 2013 11:10
Full Name: Florian M.
Nickname: Flo
Home Town: Hoedspruit
Current 4x4: '99 GRX 4500
Home Language: German
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 32 times

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Post by Florian320 »

The sound really is very little, so maybe it would be a bit early to change something.

The sound I started this thread about stopped a few days after driving through water.
So maybe it was just a bit of dirt which was trapped in one bearing, what would you say?

Tear the stuff open and change something or rather wait and see?
User avatar
Peter Connan
Moderator
Posts: 6011
Joined: 10 Sep 2010 07:21
Full Name: Peter Connan
Nickname: Piet
Home Town: Kempton Park
Current 4x4: 1996 Patrol 4.5SGL
Home Language: Afrikaans
Location: Kempton Park
Has thanked: 1067 times
Been thanked: 985 times

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Post by Peter Connan »

Get yourself a 6303 bearing (17mm Id, 47mm OD and 14mm wide). This is the idler bearing which I still believe is the one causing the problem.

You can keep it in your tool box untill the bearing starts causing problems again Sooner or later, you will need it.

You will need a 14mm socket on a ratchet, and a small (1/4" drive) 10mm socket on a long extension as well as a pair of internal circlip pliers to change out the bearing, and you will probably bleed a little bit in the process.

Honestly, it's such a mission to change out in the field, that I would just do it before it really starts causing problems.

Added note: this same bearing is used in the TB42, TB45 AND TD42, however the tools needed to fit it may vary.
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
Florian320
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 189
Joined: 19 Nov 2013 11:10
Full Name: Florian M.
Nickname: Flo
Home Town: Hoedspruit
Current 4x4: '99 GRX 4500
Home Language: German
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 32 times

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Post by Florian320 »

Good morning Peter,

thanks a lot for this valuable information!
That‘s what I‘ll do: get this bearing an have it changed in the workshop or do it mysel, I‘ll see if I think I can do it.

I‘ll post an update when I changed it.

Have a great Sunday!
User avatar
offroadbiker
Moderator
Posts: 2841
Joined: 25 Jul 2012 08:36
Full Name: Dirk de Clerk
Nickname: ORB
Home Town: Krugersdorp
Current 4x4: Patrol GQ 4.2 ST
Home Language: Afrikaans/English
Location: Krugersdorp
Has thanked: 186 times
Been thanked: 261 times

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Post by offroadbiker »

Peter Connan wrote: 05 Jan 2020 09:10 Get yourself a 6303 bearing (17mm Id, 47mm OD and 14mm wide). This is the idler bearing which I still believe is the one causing the problem.

You can keep it in your tool box untill the bearing starts causing problems again Sooner or later, you will need it.

You will need a 14mm socket on a ratchet, and a small (1/4" drive) 10mm socket on a long extension as well as a pair of internal circlip pliers to change out the bearing, and you will probably bleed a little bit in the process.

Honestly, it's such a mission to change out in the field, that I would just do it before it really starts causing problems.

Added note: this same bearing is used in the TB42, TB45 AND TD42, however the tools needed to fit it may vary.
Peter is dit nodig om te doen as preventative maintenance?
Dirk
1996 Nissan Patrol 4.2 ST
User avatar
Peter Connan
Moderator
Posts: 6011
Joined: 10 Sep 2010 07:21
Full Name: Peter Connan
Nickname: Piet
Home Town: Kempton Park
Current 4x4: 1996 Patrol 4.5SGL
Home Language: Afrikaans
Location: Kempton Park
Has thanked: 1067 times
Been thanked: 985 times

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Post by Peter Connan »

Dirk, hy gee gewoonlik redelik lank waarskuwing. Ek dink nie dis nodig nie.
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
Florian320
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 189
Joined: 19 Nov 2013 11:10
Full Name: Florian M.
Nickname: Flo
Home Town: Hoedspruit
Current 4x4: '99 GRX 4500
Home Language: German
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 32 times

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Post by Florian320 »

Ok, here is an update:
I decided to do the big number as the area was worked on anyhow and everyhing accessbile.
So I got a new water pump, thermostat for very hot conditions, viscous coupling and fan blade plus the bearing.
In addition I had the cooling system flushed.

The pump still looked good, no noise, a little corrosion but in working condition.
Anyhow it seems that my viscous coupling was gone as the fan didn't really go on during driving but no does above 84°.

Also the temperature now is a bit more stable than before.
Florian320
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 189
Joined: 19 Nov 2013 11:10
Full Name: Florian M.
Nickname: Flo
Home Town: Hoedspruit
Current 4x4: '99 GRX 4500
Home Language: German
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 32 times

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Post by Florian320 »

I can now positively say that my viscous coupling was done.
Now the temperature reacts also much more 'logical', I can see that it meanders around / above the thermostat opening temperature.

Before it would go very rarely but then quite quick to more than 90 degrees, now it always stays around 82 (opening temperature 76°).
The water level always was good.

The viscous coupling activates around 84 degrees and works a lot - I couldn't hear the fan before so that one for sure was gone.

In the end I can only guess wether the pump or (also) the thermostat had an issue but the overall result is very positive. The additional flushing of the system also might have done it's positive part.
Post Reply

Return to “09. Engines”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Ahrefs [Bot] and 12 guests