Rock slider concept
- Peter Connan
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Rock slider concept
Often I get ideas in the middle of the night. The problem is I never knew which are the good ones and which are the bad ones.
Some of you know that the concept behind my rock-sliders is to feed (and spread) the loads directly into the whole sill area, instead of passing them to the chassis the way most South Africans believe it should be done.
There are two reasons I do it this way. Firstly because a set of brackets strong enough to do the same job would weigh many many kilograms, and secondly because, since the chassis and body move separately, thus the sliders have to be mounted at least 15-20mm away from the body, thus lowering clearance even further.
But even so, the sliders I make are still extremely heavy (between 55 and 67kg depending on model).
And typically Patrols have two problems: belly clearance and being overweight. I know my car is lower than most, but I often smack my rock sliders pretty hard long before the rest of the chassis (which is still about 50mm lower) touches.
So here's the concept: a contoured piece of metal glued to the bottom of the sill, covering basically the whole area from 10mm below the joint right at the bottom to the edge of the door, held in place with the same type of silicon adhesive/sealant now used to fit the windscreens on modern cars.
The advantage is much lower weight (16kg for the set) and less effect on clearance (10mm instead of 60-70mm), the disadvantage is that one loses whatever protection the sliders deliver to the doors, and the loss of having a step. To my mind, assuming "rocksliders" not "side steps" (AKA Tinfoil trappies) the stepping surface of the slider is so close to the door that it doesn't make much difference.
Some thoughts please?
Some of you know that the concept behind my rock-sliders is to feed (and spread) the loads directly into the whole sill area, instead of passing them to the chassis the way most South Africans believe it should be done.
There are two reasons I do it this way. Firstly because a set of brackets strong enough to do the same job would weigh many many kilograms, and secondly because, since the chassis and body move separately, thus the sliders have to be mounted at least 15-20mm away from the body, thus lowering clearance even further.
But even so, the sliders I make are still extremely heavy (between 55 and 67kg depending on model).
And typically Patrols have two problems: belly clearance and being overweight. I know my car is lower than most, but I often smack my rock sliders pretty hard long before the rest of the chassis (which is still about 50mm lower) touches.
So here's the concept: a contoured piece of metal glued to the bottom of the sill, covering basically the whole area from 10mm below the joint right at the bottom to the edge of the door, held in place with the same type of silicon adhesive/sealant now used to fit the windscreens on modern cars.
The advantage is much lower weight (16kg for the set) and less effect on clearance (10mm instead of 60-70mm), the disadvantage is that one loses whatever protection the sliders deliver to the doors, and the loss of having a step. To my mind, assuming "rocksliders" not "side steps" (AKA Tinfoil trappies) the stepping surface of the slider is so close to the door that it doesn't make much difference.
Some thoughts please?
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- Sweetlips
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Re: Rock slider concept
Hi Peter
Do you perhaps have an illustration of what you are referring too?
If i can see what people are talking about it makes more sense to me.
Do you perhaps have an illustration of what you are referring too?
If i can see what people are talking about it makes more sense to me.
Life's a journey, enjoy the ride!!!
- Peter Connan
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Re: Rock slider concept
Unfortunately not yet Sweetlips.
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
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Re: Rock slider concept
My votes are in.
The new concept is great. I believe rock rage does a similar thing for jeeps.
The new concept is great. I believe rock rage does a similar thing for jeeps.
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- JohnBoyZA
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- Oetie
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Re: Rock slider concept
My votes are in.
What I would like to have as part of rocks sliders is an option on the slider, fitted to the chassis, where I could attach a carabiner or soft shackle in the middle for rescue purposes if needed. Note NOT vehicle recovery, although in certain instances it can be of assistance to be able to have such a point on the side of the vehicle as well...
Something else you can dream or think about is light weight wheel chocks...
What I would like to have as part of rocks sliders is an option on the slider, fitted to the chassis, where I could attach a carabiner or soft shackle in the middle for rescue purposes if needed. Note NOT vehicle recovery, although in certain instances it can be of assistance to be able to have such a point on the side of the vehicle as well...
Something else you can dream or think about is light weight wheel chocks...
One life, live it to the fullest!!
ORRA - L65
HAM - ZS6LEF
Tlou - 2009 Patrol TD42T
ORRA - L65
HAM - ZS6LEF
Tlou - 2009 Patrol TD42T
- davidvdm
- Patrolman
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Re: Rock slider concept
Voted...
As a mostly daily driver, I think side steps are needed (depending on height of vehicle). I know my rig MUST have side steps incorporated, But my floor is 740mm off the ground, and there is just no way to get in or out unless you are hanging on the doors and/or steering wheel. Mine are off at the moment while I do some other work on the Sani, and I literally fell out of it the other day because I could not do a big enough split to reach the floor. I know I should have done a U turn inside to slide out on my bum, but I was just wanting to retrieve something on the back seat, and thought I could make it.
Anyhow, protection from underneath is only part of the protection I want. Side protection, and the added advantage of being able to connect a "recovery" point to them is also very handy, and has been used to support the vehicle stopping a roll over. Being able to jack at will on them is also a massive advantage.
BUT, for a lower vehicle that does not see big rocks and heavy trails, the sill protection plates can be great. Just to toughen up the standard thin sheet metal sills a little. What thickness steel plate you looking at? Can't imagine anything less than 3mm can be used.
As a mostly daily driver, I think side steps are needed (depending on height of vehicle). I know my rig MUST have side steps incorporated, But my floor is 740mm off the ground, and there is just no way to get in or out unless you are hanging on the doors and/or steering wheel. Mine are off at the moment while I do some other work on the Sani, and I literally fell out of it the other day because I could not do a big enough split to reach the floor. I know I should have done a U turn inside to slide out on my bum, but I was just wanting to retrieve something on the back seat, and thought I could make it.
Anyhow, protection from underneath is only part of the protection I want. Side protection, and the added advantage of being able to connect a "recovery" point to them is also very handy, and has been used to support the vehicle stopping a roll over. Being able to jack at will on them is also a massive advantage.
BUT, for a lower vehicle that does not see big rocks and heavy trails, the sill protection plates can be great. Just to toughen up the standard thin sheet metal sills a little. What thickness steel plate you looking at? Can't imagine anything less than 3mm can be used.
David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
- Peter Connan
- Moderator
- Posts: 6016
- Joined: 10 Sep 2010 07:21
- Full Name: Peter Connan
- Nickname: Piet
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- Current 4x4: 1996 Patrol 4.5SGL
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Re: Rock slider concept
Looking at 5mm David.
And it DOES get used on tough trials. But it is also an overlander, where weight (for me anyway) becomes a huge issue.
And it DOES get used on tough trials. But it is also an overlander, where weight (for me anyway) becomes a huge issue.
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
- davidvdm
- Patrolman
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Re: Rock slider concept
Mine also turned out heavier than I thought originally, at around 34kg each side. And then I still managed to bend some bits on it, and had to redo some bits with heavier gauge. But like I said, I need steps. Actually trying to figure an additional step that can either remove, or fold away as this coke crate I have to carry around for the missus, is a pain (and embarrassing).
David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
- Peter Connan
- Moderator
- Posts: 6016
- Joined: 10 Sep 2010 07:21
- Full Name: Peter Connan
- Nickname: Piet
- Home Town: Kempton Park
- Current 4x4: 1996 Patrol 4.5SGL
- Home Language: Afrikaans
- Location: Kempton Park
- Has thanked: 1067 times
- Been thanked: 987 times
Re: Rock slider concept
I think your next mod should be a hatch in the floor, so that you can get in and out from the bottom like a monster truck...
HAve you looked at the folding steps from the old series landies?
HAve you looked at the folding steps from the old series landies?
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
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