Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

Must say I like that design Christo. All the other LED globe replacements I have seen have fans on the back of them. Some of the overseas forums report problems with them once you have taken them for a swim, especially with mud involved. But these I like, and they seem cheaper than the Speaker and Trucklite full replacement options I have had on my wish list for the Sani.

Thanks for sharing the link.

Christo, did you need to upgrade the wiring to accommodate the 160w ( 80w per side ), or is the power draw on these LED's different? Did you refit the rubber boot that fits over the back of the headlight?

I see that there are 200w H4 globes going a LOT cheaper. They seem very similar, in that they don't have the fan on the cooling fins. here is the link to them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-H4-200W-20 ... 2122781152

And here is something very similar, for a few Rands cheaper ( not sure what the difference is ... maybe someone can tell us )

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201951620511?rmvSB=true

I also see these "butterfly" ones ( 160w ) for quite a bit less than the ones you posted. What do you think of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-80W-160W-160 ... x1&vxp=mtr

kyk ook na extreme lights se produkte, as my bootjie land sal ek dit graag in Trol wil pulg....

www.extremelights.co.za

Yeah they have some yummy stuff there, but I'll chance buying it from China ( it all gets made there anyway ) for a lot less money, but a long wait for customs and Johannesburg Mail services....

ricster wrote:Christo, did you need to upgrade the wiring to accommodate the 160w ( 80w per side ), or is the power draw on these LED's different?

Cedric, beware the horrible abomination that results when pidgin English meets a non-technical marketing department! These blokes quote the combined power consumption of the bulbs, i.e. what they will use when both the brights & the dims are operating at the same time. This is not how headlights work, though. Real life wattage (power consumption) is half of what they say, which in turn is less than a normal halogen bulb. Therefore I did not upgrade my wiring looms because these LED bulbs use only 25W per side, which is roughly half the current draw from before.

Did you refit the rubber boot that fits over the back of the headlight?

Nope, there's a big fat heat sink in the way! So, I guess that means that I must be careful to submerge the headlights? Luckily I have not done so in the 8 years that I've had Chuck and I have no intention of doing so in the next 8 years. I'll keep a close watch on those pesky potholes and puddles going to work

I see that there are 200w H4 globes going a LOT cheaper. They seem very similar, in that they don't have the fan on the cooling fins. here is the link to them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-H4-200W-20 ... 2122781152

And here is something very similar, for a few Rands cheaper ( not sure what the difference is ... maybe someone can tell us )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201951620511?rmvSB=true

They are not similar at all - they are low beam only! Buy these and your Maiden will not have brights any more...

I also see these "butterfly" ones ( 160w ) for quite a bit less than the ones you posted. What do you think of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-80W-160W-160 ... x1&vxp=mtr

I would not buy any of the bulbs you found because they do not mimic the shape of the standard bulbs. They have a single fat LED, whilst halogen bulbs have a longer, thinner wire as a light source. The dim wire should sit further away from the reflector to ensure a more focused beam, with the bright wire closer to the reflector for a wider focua. It also has a little cap below it to prevent light from shining down onto the reflector, because this light will be bounced upwards through the lens & mess up the clean cut-off that you want on dims. Finally, they have a blanking area at the end of the bulb to prevent unreflected/unfocused light from shining straight out at the road. The bulbs you found have none of these features, so I'd expect them to have a poor focus & light pattern.
BTW: The bulbs from Extreme Lights do have all the features I mentioned above, but they have only 12 (as opposed to 16) LEDs...

On mine the heatsink on the back of the globe screws off.

You fit the globe, fit the cover over the back of the globe and then screw the heatsink back on. Probably more waterproof than the original because of the tight fit.

This is the 4X4 direct one.

Just "make" a silicone gasket on the mating surface of the globe. I do it with my globes in my Hella spots and my headlights to make them water proof. Once you get water on those reflectors, they are never the same again. I have had to replace headlight housing twice and a few Hella Comets because of this. Hence my comments about LED globes with the fans on the back. I know my headlights get to water level now and again, but then I have not had the opportunity to test myself now that they are 1,1 meter above ground level. Hope I never have to do 1.1 meter deep water... But you never know

Thanks Christo !!

This is why we ask questions before we buy, because there are people here that know stuff that others don't and buying the wrong ones can become a costly exercise in the long run.

Ok... so next silly question ....

When they say... Color:9006 16000LM 6000K... on the one sellers site, but on another seller site they say ... Color:H4 9003 HB3 ... which is the correct one? they both seem to be the H4 fitting

Here is the two I'm talking about....
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-x-LED ... 264.gd6jFP

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-x-LED ... 272.gd6jFP

There is as huge price difference too, so not sure which is the right one.

ricster wrote:When they say... Color:9006 16000LM 6000K... on the one sellers site, but on another seller site they say ... Color:H4 9003 HB3 ... which is the correct one? they both seem to be the H4 fitting

The "K" refers to the light temperature which is measured on a Kelvin scale. Wikipedia explains it nicely, and you can also look at many pictures on the web to get a better idea (no, not THOSE pictures!). Sunlight is around 6000K. Lower Kevin values indicate a warm temperature (red light) and higher values a cool temperature (blue light). You wanna stick close to 6000K IMO to make things look natural at night.

The "LM" refers to Lumen, which is the luminous flux, or light output in plain English. Lumen is a much better way of measuring a bulb's performance than the wattage rating, BTW. More Lumen = more light.

Here's a nice picture I stole from the Internet that summarises all of the above: