wheel winches and Augers
- Peter Connan
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wheel winches and Augers
Hello Guys
Any of you ever used this kind of stuff, or seen it in use?
I once came across a guy in Mabuasehube who had something similar permanently bolted to hes Defender, but on this particular one I am concerned about the strength of the extended wheel nuts when used with mag rims, as they would probably need to be fairly long?
Those augers and spades. Is ground that is soft enough that you can screw that thing in, hard enough that it can actually hold fast on a winch recovery?
Some more info here: http://www.bushwinch.com.au/products.html
I do think they are pretty expensive though?
I also wonder whether you could get the same effect with only one drum on the rear axle (must have diff lock though), by running the rope to a snatch block and then to a recovery point on the bumper?
Any of you ever used this kind of stuff, or seen it in use?
I once came across a guy in Mabuasehube who had something similar permanently bolted to hes Defender, but on this particular one I am concerned about the strength of the extended wheel nuts when used with mag rims, as they would probably need to be fairly long?
Those augers and spades. Is ground that is soft enough that you can screw that thing in, hard enough that it can actually hold fast on a winch recovery?
Some more info here: http://www.bushwinch.com.au/products.html
I do think they are pretty expensive though?
I also wonder whether you could get the same effect with only one drum on the rear axle (must have diff lock though), by running the rope to a snatch block and then to a recovery point on the bumper?
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
- Izak
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Re: wheel winches and Augers
Peter
Long ago in the SADF we had a similar system on the old Series 3 Landys, (Garrie). This drum was bolted onto the front wheels and when stuck you simply attached the rope or strap to the tree, pointed the wheels in the direction of the tree and with the front wheels pulled the Landy out of the dwang.
I used a couple of times in Northern Namibia and it worked well every time.
Long ago in the SADF we had a similar system on the old Series 3 Landys, (Garrie). This drum was bolted onto the front wheels and when stuck you simply attached the rope or strap to the tree, pointed the wheels in the direction of the tree and with the front wheels pulled the Landy out of the dwang.
I used a couple of times in Northern Namibia and it worked well every time.
- Peter Connan
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Re: wheel winches and Augers
Izak this is exactly what that guy in the Mabuasehube had.
But surely it shouldn't cost the same or more than a Warn?
But surely it shouldn't cost the same or more than a Warn?
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- Izak
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Re: wheel winches and Augers
Peter
This cannot cost more that a winch. The same people that make a rim must be able to make this. I bought 13 inch rims, powder coated for about R 325 each. This is less steel and if planned right should not add more that 5 mm to the lenght that the wheel nut must cover.
I will look for a photo of this at home.
This cannot cost more that a winch. The same people that make a rim must be able to make this. I bought 13 inch rims, powder coated for about R 325 each. This is less steel and if planned right should not add more that 5 mm to the lenght that the wheel nut must cover.
I will look for a photo of this at home.
- Izak
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Re: wheel winches and Augers
Hello Peter
Got this off the internet:
Hub Winches
There is an original Land Rover device called a Hub Winch. This device consists of a pair of deep steel dishes that are bolted onto the rear wheels of a vehicle. One attaches one end of a fabric strap or non-stretch rope around each drum and the other ends to a length of stout rope. Fit a pulley to the rope and attach the pulley to an anchor point. The pulley is important as it equalizes the strain between sides such that if one wheel spins it will take up the slack so that the strap does not fall off the opposite side.
Take note to wrap the strap in the opposite direction of rotation of the wheel. Gently drive the vehicle out of the situation, taking care not to drive on the strap when grip is re-gained. There is no need for excessive power, drive in 1st or reverse in low range with center diff locked where applicable. The reason for fitting hub winches to the rear wheels only is that the steering mechanism will get bent as the front axle cannot cope with such loads.
The original hub winches are fairly scarce and can only be used on steel rims.
There is, however an equivalent available, called Hubbytrax, these are available at 4x4 stores and chain stores. The straps used should have a 6 ton rating and each need only be 8 meters long and the rest of the distance can be taken up with a rope, via the pulley.
Maybe we never read the instructions as the ones I had on my Garry was on the front axle.
Regards
Got this off the internet:
Hub Winches
There is an original Land Rover device called a Hub Winch. This device consists of a pair of deep steel dishes that are bolted onto the rear wheels of a vehicle. One attaches one end of a fabric strap or non-stretch rope around each drum and the other ends to a length of stout rope. Fit a pulley to the rope and attach the pulley to an anchor point. The pulley is important as it equalizes the strain between sides such that if one wheel spins it will take up the slack so that the strap does not fall off the opposite side.
Take note to wrap the strap in the opposite direction of rotation of the wheel. Gently drive the vehicle out of the situation, taking care not to drive on the strap when grip is re-gained. There is no need for excessive power, drive in 1st or reverse in low range with center diff locked where applicable. The reason for fitting hub winches to the rear wheels only is that the steering mechanism will get bent as the front axle cannot cope with such loads.
The original hub winches are fairly scarce and can only be used on steel rims.
There is, however an equivalent available, called Hubbytrax, these are available at 4x4 stores and chain stores. The straps used should have a 6 ton rating and each need only be 8 meters long and the rest of the distance can be taken up with a rope, via the pulley.
Maybe we never read the instructions as the ones I had on my Garry was on the front axle.
Regards
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Re: wheel winches and Augers
them capstan whinches were designed for Landie wayyyyyyyyy back - look on scrapyards in the platteland and up in Africa, you'll still find them [there's a heap in Lagos on the coastal highway just past 12-mile bridge..
Bugger with mod day 4x4, on front you dont have lock diff, so the "recovering" wheel will stay parked while the other one aimlessly goes round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round --- ooopss, mors ons petrol hier..
I once saw oom Rooi Hans van Rensburg cutting his axe handle in three , push it through the wheel spokes, then "vleg" his rope over it on either side of the wheel, tie the end of the ropes to a stump, and voila!!!! out that International walked - [taggg, daai dag het ek nuwe swetswoorde ook geleer. sommer 'n klomp] Die !Xkgau sal ook nooit weer dieselle wes nie.
Bugger with mod day 4x4, on front you dont have lock diff, so the "recovering" wheel will stay parked while the other one aimlessly goes round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round --- ooopss, mors ons petrol hier..
I once saw oom Rooi Hans van Rensburg cutting his axe handle in three , push it through the wheel spokes, then "vleg" his rope over it on either side of the wheel, tie the end of the ropes to a stump, and voila!!!! out that International walked - [taggg, daai dag het ek nuwe swetswoorde ook geleer. sommer 'n klomp] Die !Xkgau sal ook nooit weer dieselle wes nie.
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Re: wheel winches and Augers
Not sure if I understand you correctly there, Mac, but the old 4x4s also didn't have front (or rear) diff locks either (with a few exceptions). That is why the hub capstans come as a pair that need to be fitted to both wheels on an axle and need to be connected to the anchor via a pulley. In this way the load on both wheels is equalized and neither wheel can spin out, even with open diffs.Kagiso II wrote:Bugger with mod day 4x4, on front you dont have lock diff, so the "recovering" wheel will stay parked while the other one aimlessly goes round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round-n-round --- ooopss, mors ons petrol hier..
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- Peter Connan
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Re: wheel winches and Augers
Oom Mac Gerrit is reg, mens gebruik normaalweg twee op 'n slag.
[quote="Izak"]Peter
This cannot cost more that a winch. The same people that make a rim must be able to make this. I bought 13 inch rims, powder coated for about R 325 each. This is less steel and if planned right should not add more that 5 mm to the lenght that the wheel nut must cover.quote]
Izak the kit shown in the link selss for about Auz$950.00, which by the time we get it here is more than a Warn.
Also, if you are using steel marie-biscuit wheels I agree, but if you want to use them on mags (particularly deep-dish mags like mine) with wide tires on, those spacers would have to be considerably longer.
One big advantage with these particular units though is that they do not stay on the wheels, so you won't ding them in the rocks.
I also like the guides they put on the front wheels, as that will allow you to winch at an angle but I think you can get the same effect with brackets on the ends of the bumper?
[quote="Izak"]Peter
This cannot cost more that a winch. The same people that make a rim must be able to make this. I bought 13 inch rims, powder coated for about R 325 each. This is less steel and if planned right should not add more that 5 mm to the lenght that the wheel nut must cover.quote]
Izak the kit shown in the link selss for about Auz$950.00, which by the time we get it here is more than a Warn.
Also, if you are using steel marie-biscuit wheels I agree, but if you want to use them on mags (particularly deep-dish mags like mine) with wide tires on, those spacers would have to be considerably longer.
One big advantage with these particular units though is that they do not stay on the wheels, so you won't ding them in the rocks.
I also like the guides they put on the front wheels, as that will allow you to winch at an angle but I think you can get the same effect with brackets on the ends of the bumper?
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
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Re: wheel winches and Augers
I have no idea why you'd want something that makes your vehicle wider (so less able to squeeze into tight spaces) bolted in permanently?Peter Connan wrote:Hello Guys
Any of you ever used this kind of stuff, or seen it in use?
I once came across a guy in Mabuasehube who had something similar permanently bolted to hes Defender, but on this particular one I am concerned about the strength of the extended wheel nuts when used with mag rims, as they would probably need to be fairly long?
Maybe if I tooled around the Gobi Desert all the time...
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Re: wheel winches and Augers
Very good point! In fact those things are not designed to "stay on", but we might guess the guy is too lazy to bother with the "on and off's", or may be he just gets stuck everywhere, so -- again -- why bother -- bad joke sorry...Mrowka wrote:I have no idea why you'd want something that makes your vehicle wider (so less able to squeeze into tight spaces) bolted in permanently?
Maybe if I tooled around the Gobi Desert all the time...
What called my attention was the anchir, it looked neat, but I wander how that would work in muddy soil , franklly I dont see it , but I guess for the Aussies it works, I hope
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