Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Please share information about trips you have done
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Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Post by iandvl »

Many years ago, I bought my first Patrol. Shortly after this, my father instructed me to find him one, as he had totally fallen in love with my vehicle. At that point, Petri Oosthuizen was selling his blue GRX, and my father snapped it up. In any case, what has happened subsequently is that I frequently have excellent company on my trips and I'm very blessed to be able to share some of them with my parents.

Lockdown was difficult for the folks. My folks are both 71 this year (very active 71, I must say) and they have reached the point where they want to see everything whilst they still can. So we've been touring more regularly as time goes by. As such, we did Namaqualand and Southern Namibia in 2018. Last year November, the Richtersveld and Namaqualand. Since my sister and her husband were hiking the Fish River Canyon and my parents were going down to give her some support, my father asked me to put together a trip for things that he and my mother still wanted to see in Southern Namibia whilst my sister and BIL did the hike.

So, I knocked together a trip at short notice. It's not the type of trip I'd normally do. I prefer travelling shorter days, spending longer at places and seeing more. However, I had to work within the confined of what my parents wanted to see (non-negotiable: Luderitz, Kolmanskuppe, Sossusvlei, Seriem) fitted into the time constraints of how long my sister and BIL would be hiking for. So, in short, we've done 4865 kilometres between the 29th of April, and the 10th of May. We've not camped as much as I normally do either - specifically because of the longer distances we were travelling and the fact that my folks are getting on in years... We felt it better to do more chaleting than camping because of the distances we'd normally be running up most days.
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Basic itinerary was as follows:

29th April - Potchefstroom
30th April - Redsands (Kuruman)
01 May - Augrabies
02 May - Ais-Ais
03 May - Luderitz (via Aussenkehr and Rosh Pinah)
04 May - Luderitz
05 May - Sesriem
06 May - Sesriem
07 May - Ais-Ais
08 May - Augrabies
09 May - Redsands (Kuruman)
10 May - Pretoria

As with all things Namibia, there are too many highlights to mention. I've seen them before in any case. But it was special seeing that the areas were a hell of a lot wetter than the last time I was there in 2019. It was amazing to see water in Sesriem Canyon and Sossusvlei. This time, I visited the "Hidden Pan" as opposed to the "Dead Pan" and found an absolute wonder. And then I saw bits of Kolmanskuppe I'd not see before, and I got some time to do some driving out South of Luderitz - Grossebucht, Dias Point etc. A few teaser photos follow.
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Vehicles: Two Nissan Patrol 4.5 GRX, and some version of an AWB Subaru platkar before and after Ais-Ais.
People: My folks, Hilary and Danie. My sister and BIL Shirley and Stephan. My lady friend, Liana, and myself.

Some statistic.

Total Kilos: 4865 km
Average Speed: 79,23 km/h
Travel Time: 59H13M

I'll be adding my report here in sections, as I get time, as I normally do. But don't hold your breath - it will take me a while to get it all done and I am super busy with other things too.
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Re: Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Post by iandvl »

Day 1 and Day 2 - Pretoria to Redsands

Distance: 604
Driving Time: 7 Hours 37 Minutes
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I combined the first two days, as it is probably pointless describing a drive down to Potchefstroom from Pretoria. In any case, we finished packing in Pretoria at around lunch time. Hit the road, refuelling en-route to Potch. We spent the night with my folks. I took along some of my personal beer stash as my father has decided that he loves the beer I brew. Unfortunately, my Lager and Amber Ale is done for now, so I will need to brew some more... :)

Had a (relatively) early night and left Potch at the proverbial sparrow's fart to drive through to Kuruman. Took the N12 via Klerksdorp, Wolmaranstad before turning off to Schweizer-Reneke and Vryburg.

The road between Wollies and Schweizer is terrible at the moment. More pothole than tar. Other than that, it is fantastic to see how green everything is. The last time I drove this way at looked like a desert...

We refuelled at Mams in Vryburg, and then drove in to Redsands - getting there early in the afternoon.

We opted to camp at Redsands, as we wanted to make sure we had everything we needed before entering Namibia.

Braaied for supper, had a few beers and turned in.

Oh - the "Koring Kriek" was just some arbitrary creepy crawly we encountered in the camp-site. It's a poor photo, as it was moving around all over the place... :)
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Re: Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Post by iandvl »

Day 3 - Redsands to Augrabies Village

Distance: 386
Driving Time: 4 Hours 13 Minutes
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In the morning, we packed up and took a leisurely drive to Augrabies Village. My folks checked in at the chalet in the village, and Liana and I headed out for the national park. I wanted to see what the falls looked like after all the rain as the last time I had been there was in 2019 and it was pretty dry.

Took a walk around the national park, took some photos. The "selfie" is Liana and I, by the way.

We then headed to Augrabies to meet my folks. We stayed in a place called "Klein Renosterkop", which is owned by friends of my parents, and it is awesome.

I'll digress from the report a little to mention something. I'm a pyromaniac and cook over fire as much as I can. I love roasts, and on most weekends I'll do a roast or something on the Weber. But one of my biggest gripes about this is that Webers do not travel well.... A few months ago, I purchased a Cobb. It took me a while to get use to, but these days I love it. It is small enough to take camping, and one can cook virtually anything in it. The Cobblets are nice and compact as well. And the fact that it remains so cool when you braai means that you can braai virtually anywhere.

In any case, I'd arranged with my parents that I'd do the catering for this trip. It just makes it so much easier when one is cooking the same thing.

On the menu for the evening, was a beef roast. I did the roast, Liana did the veg, and we lit up a nice "gesslige" fire with vineyard offcuts that Klein Renosterkop sells.

One thing about Augrabies village. The church clock is 20 minutes slow. It's a little annoying - if I'm going to be woken up by a bell tolling, I'd at least like it to be on time... :rolling: :rolling:
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Re: Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Post by iandvl »

Day 4 - Augrabies to Ais-Ais

Distance: 422km
Travelling Time: 4 hours 43 minutes
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My sister and BIL had joined us the previous evening, and tthis day would see us crossing the border. We packed the vehicles. From Augrabies, headed back towards Kakamas. Just through Kakamas, we turned off to the left towards Riemvasmaak. The first bit is tar, and then it changes to relatively good gravel. The first stretch is through vineyards and orchards, and one obviously makes the effort to keep one's speed down to prevent the dust from destroying the fruit.

At the first split in the dirt road, we took the right hand split towards Lutzputs. Later on, one passes through a "poort" caled Biesiespoort Pass where we spotted a pair of Vereaux's Eagles. Shortly after the poort, one reaches a T-junction. Right is Lutzputs, left is Namibia. So we turned left and joined up with the Nakop <-> Upington road 54km from Nakop.

This is the first time I've crossed into Namibia at Nakop. I've crossed out from Namibia here before, but as with all border crossing things, it can be a little confusing. The additional administrative nonsense that has occurred with COVID makes it a little more confusing though...

In any case, the process to follow is as follows:

At Nakop, when looking at the actual border gate, there is an office to the left which is where the temporary port health official sits. One needs to collect a form from him (I've attached it here), complete it. He will then measure temperature etc. If you're vetted to proceed, he gives you a white ticket.

ZA Exit Questionaire:
Traveller Exit Questionaire - June 2020.pdf
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One then proceeds to the police desk to complete the departing vehicle register. Only one person may be at the SAP departure desk at a time. The driver therefore must take all passengers' passports with to complete the register. The police will not issue the gatepass. Next step is customs (if required) and emmigration, where you will need to hand in the "white ticket" issues by the health official.

After that, hand in your gate pass at the gate and drive on into Namibia once the police let you. and take a leisurely drive to Ariamsvlei (about 14km from the ZA side of the border).

At the Namibian side of the border, first stop is, once again, the port health office. This is the first pre-fab white building on the left hands side once you enter the border post. Here, you need to take your PCR test certificate (taken within 7 days prior) as well as the Namibian COVID form (also attached). The officials will ask a few questions, measure temperatute, and then provide you with a ticket. This done, the next step is immigration. After this, the road tax, and then customs (if applicable). Once all is done, you're in Namibia.

Namibian Entry Quetionaire: Having cleared all of this, we drove through to Karasburg, where we refuelled. From there, we took the M22 (tar) South before taking the C10 West towards Ais-Ais. The C10 is good dirt road and runs for about 50-odd km before intersecting the B1 (tar). Here one turns North for 5km and then back onto the C10 West - continuing straight until Ais-Ais.

I was aware of the floods in Ais-Ais earlier this year. But I was not quite prepared to see the devastation. The tennis courts and swimming pools closer to the camp-sites are gone. Various newer chalets next to the gate are standing with smashed windows and similar. The camp-sites are all washed away. Nowadays, one camps on the grass in the middle of the camp-sites. Luckily, the beer was cold. We had a braai and turned in. We'd be up ueber early the next morning to drop the hikers off at Hobas.
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Re: Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

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Day 5 - Ais-Ais to Luderitz

Distance: 624km
Travelling Time: 7 Hours 46 Minutes
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Early morning, we broke camp, and headed out at first light to drop the hokers off at Hobas. We travelled East on the C10 before heading North on the C37. 76km later, we got to Hobas. Drove up to the viewpoint, then dropped the hikers off at the start. Liana then drove my BIL's Subaru back to Ais-Ais, where we left it for their return.

I'd opted for the more scenic route this day - basically, from Ais-Ais, down to Aussenkehr and then along the bank of the Orange river until Sendelingsdrif. It is dirt all the way (apart from a short tar stretch outside Aussenkehr). I drove the same route (albeit in the other direction) back in 2018. In any case, it is an amazingly beautiful route. Having done the Richtersveld across the river in November, I was also curious to see the Richtersveld from the Northern banks of the river again.

Hitting the tar road again just before Rosh Pinah, we refuelled in Rosh Pinah before heading up North to Aus, sighting feral horses just South of Aus. We then turned West on the B4 for the last stretch to Luderitz - arriving there late in the afternoon.

We checked into the Island Cottage chalets, which are awesome. They are basically on the peninsula joining Shark Island to the mainland, and have the most amazing views over the Atlantic. We went out for dinner.
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A side note. Whilst travelling next to the river, we spotted these nests. If anybody knows what birds made these nests, I would really love to know...
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Re: Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Post by iandvl »

Day 6 - Luderitz

Distance: 107km
Travelling Time: 2 Hours 41 Minutes
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One needs time to see Luderitz. As such, we spent two nights there.

Both Liana and I had seen Luderitz before - she back in 2014, and myself in 2019. As such, we slept in as we wanted to resupply whilst my parents did the tour at Kolmanskuppe. This day turned out to be a public holiday (Cassinga day). Luckily, we had enough beer and similar, as it is not possible to buy alcohol on public holidays under the current lockdown regulations. Note to self: I must be more attentative when planning trips. This almost bit us badly...

In any case, my folks left early to do the tour at Kolmanskuppe, we resupplied at the Spar for the rest of the trip and then we also headed through to Kolmanskuppe. My parents were still busy with the tour, and this suited us as we had both done it before. So I headed out to parts of the place I'd not seen before - specifically, the schule out right at the Southern-Easdtern point beyond the Krankhaus. Kolmanskuppe never ceases to amaze me. Whenever I see the place, I think about the poem, Ozymandias, by Percy Bysshe Shelly:

I met a traveller from an antique land,
Who said "Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert... Near them, on the sand,
Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown,
And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
The hand that mocked them, and the heart that fed;
And on the pedestal, these words appear:
My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings;
Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal Wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away."


In any case, we took some photos, and then headed back to Luderitz for brekkies - happening perchance on the "Portuguese Fisherman" restaurant. Where we had seafood for breakfast... :)

That done, we decided to head out to the Grussebucht and the Kleinerbogenfels, heading back via Diaz Point. This done, we refuelled in Luderitz for the next day's stretch. And then up to Agate beach. After this, we had dinner at the same restaurant as earlier (I *really* recommend it) before retiring for the evening. We had an ueber long stretch again the next day...
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Re: Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Post by Peter Connan »

Always love your trip reports Ian!

I believe the nest is a Hamerkop, but not sure. Is it large?

Hamerkops usually nest in trees but are known to nest in rocks if trees are not available. They make the largest nest in Africa built by a single pair of birds (IE not as large as communal weavers or Buffalo-weavers). Nests can be 2m in diameter.
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Re: Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Post by iandvl »

Peter Connan wrote:Always love your trip reports Ian!

I believe the nest is a Hamerkop, but not sure. Is it large?

Hamerkops usually nest in trees but are known to nest in rocks if trees are not available. They make the largest nest in Africa built by a single pair of birds (IE not as large as communal weavers or Buffalo-weavers). Nests can be 2m in diameter.
Thanks Peter.

The consensus on 4x4com is also Hamerkop. The nest was huge.

Sadly, my pictures do not seem to have come out well. I am not sure if it is because I downloaded them in lowres from my camera to the phone via weefee. Bit they all seem to have a bit of a 'halo' around them.

I will download them onto my laptop when I have a chance om the weekend. Hopefully some are worth saving. :(

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Re: Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Post by andredurand »

Baie Mooi het geniet Jou trips is altyd goed beplan :coolphotos: :goodpost:
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Re: Moar Southern Namibia (Again)

Post by JohnBoyZA »

Awesome Ian, thank you for sharing!
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