Rust treatment on suspension and other components
Posted: 06 Aug 2014 18:03
What do you all do for treating and preventing further rust on suspension,steering and other drivetrain components? Any place around Pretoria that specializes in rusty patrols?
I experimented with a technique to clean up my 1981 280zx and 5 years later still looks clean and rust free. I want to see if someone can clean up my 1984 safari while it's still in Pretoria before I ship it to the USA. It will save me the labor and pain since I no longer have a full size lift in my garage. What I did with my other car is scrub all the surface rust off with a wire brush. Then with a 3M pad wash everything clean with
Marine cleaner, a degreaser cleaner diluted with water that's not going to leave any residue. Air dry and let it sit for couple hours in the sun to make it is completely dry. Cover all rubber and greased spots with a tape. Next etch the exposed surfaces and apply a zinc phosphorite layer. You want to brush on any kind of product that will turn the rust to iron oxide, and provide a bonding layer for the final protective coating. I used por-15 metal prep and it works wonderful. For the final coating you can either use something more permanents to seal the metal like por-15 or what I opted to do just spray or rub on boeshield t9 or something like wd40. I liked boeshield because it dries clear fast and does not leave a oily layer that will bond with dust. The application was only 3 steps and excluding the drying time took less than 3 hours. Shouldn't take much longer with a 4wd vehicle.
I experimented with a technique to clean up my 1981 280zx and 5 years later still looks clean and rust free. I want to see if someone can clean up my 1984 safari while it's still in Pretoria before I ship it to the USA. It will save me the labor and pain since I no longer have a full size lift in my garage. What I did with my other car is scrub all the surface rust off with a wire brush. Then with a 3M pad wash everything clean with
Marine cleaner, a degreaser cleaner diluted with water that's not going to leave any residue. Air dry and let it sit for couple hours in the sun to make it is completely dry. Cover all rubber and greased spots with a tape. Next etch the exposed surfaces and apply a zinc phosphorite layer. You want to brush on any kind of product that will turn the rust to iron oxide, and provide a bonding layer for the final protective coating. I used por-15 metal prep and it works wonderful. For the final coating you can either use something more permanents to seal the metal like por-15 or what I opted to do just spray or rub on boeshield t9 or something like wd40. I liked boeshield because it dries clear fast and does not leave a oily layer that will bond with dust. The application was only 3 steps and excluding the drying time took less than 3 hours. Shouldn't take much longer with a 4wd vehicle.