Electric Windows - Operate with IGN off
Posted: 07 Aug 2011 15:31
One thing I find irritating is that when I turn the engine off, I then can not close the windows without going back to IGN position, and this kicks in all the electrics unnecessarily. I have been thinking of ways to modify the system so that I can operate to windows with the key in the ACC2 position, but not in the completely off position (for obvious safety and security reasons).
After wasting time digging in behind the door panel and the switch unit, which is an intricate printed circuit, I had to use the grey matter once again.
I did not want to dig into the wiring too much, let alone cut wires etc.
During my fiddling about I noticed that the mirror adjustment switch works with the key in ACC2 position – so I knew where to get power from.
The fuse box seemed like the obvious place to start. I located the window fuse (position #8), and the mirror operation fuse in position #23. All I needed to block the power from the live part of fuse #8, and bring in power from fuse #23. I used a ‘blown’ fuse in #8 position and took power from the downstream side of fuse #23 (so the windows are protected by the 7.5 amp mirror fuse), and into the downstream side of the #23 fuse.
The piggy-back is achieved by some ‘elegant’ soldering onto the back of the fuses, and insulating again using a glue-gun.
The piggy-back looks a bit agricultural, but it works 100%. The beauty is that the modification is fully reversible in 10 seconds by changing back to 2 new fuses in #8 and #23.
After wasting time digging in behind the door panel and the switch unit, which is an intricate printed circuit, I had to use the grey matter once again.
I did not want to dig into the wiring too much, let alone cut wires etc.
During my fiddling about I noticed that the mirror adjustment switch works with the key in ACC2 position – so I knew where to get power from.
The fuse box seemed like the obvious place to start. I located the window fuse (position #8), and the mirror operation fuse in position #23. All I needed to block the power from the live part of fuse #8, and bring in power from fuse #23. I used a ‘blown’ fuse in #8 position and took power from the downstream side of fuse #23 (so the windows are protected by the 7.5 amp mirror fuse), and into the downstream side of the #23 fuse.
The piggy-back is achieved by some ‘elegant’ soldering onto the back of the fuses, and insulating again using a glue-gun.
The piggy-back looks a bit agricultural, but it works 100%. The beauty is that the modification is fully reversible in 10 seconds by changing back to 2 new fuses in #8 and #23.