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Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 09 Jan 2017 05:17
by Jorrie
Henning
Thank you for this well written report.
Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 09 Jan 2017 09:50
by mve100
Thanks, anyway I coulc contract you to do this on my Patrol as well
? Have also been to a few panelabeaters for qoutes etc.
Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 09 Jan 2017 18:38
by Picasso
mve100 wrote:Thanks, anyway I coulc contract you to do this on my Patrol as well
? Have also been to a few panelabeaters for qoutes etc.
Well...
It took me about 20h to do the job... which meant sacrificing a weekend.
I also spend a number of hours sourcing the required materials and tools.
Cost in material and small tools about R 2000.
But it was not the potential "cost-saving" which made me try to do the repair myself but rather the uncertainty of what I would get (and how long it would last) when handing the car over to a pallbearer
Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 10 Jan 2017 09:53
by mve100
I must actually just bite the bullet and get it done but I am also working on a plan to convince Swambo that I need to replace the rear bumper as well
Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 10 Jan 2017 11:40
by jonathan
I discovered last week that my door has done the exact same thing
. Not sure if it happened after I stuck the bigger tires on there or if it was already cracked before. So I will also need to make a plan
Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 10 Jan 2017 14:27
by Picasso
Hi Matt
I very much doubt that anything was updated / improved.
A sensible update would have been a significant increase in size of the reinforcement piece which is welded on the inside of the Door / Window Frame.
Have a look at the (borrowed) picture below . From the outside you can sort of see the welding points were the reinforcement piece is welded on on the inside. Assuming they would have increased the size / length of the reinforcement piece than you should be able to see welding points higher up.
- _MG_2435.jpg (68.36 KiB) Viewed 5910 times
- _MG_2439.jpg (34.5 KiB) Viewed 5910 times
To Jonathan
I think that the "bending force" / i.e. load on this specific area which causes this kind of crack / metal fatigue mainly occurs during the closing process of the door. When the door is closed there should be very little force on this areas as everything is locked and held in place.
This bending force during the closing process will be even bigger if the door is sagging / not properly aligned.
If the door is misaligned you have virtually a double impact.
The more you open and close the right hand side the more wear on the hinges.
You could also say that the increased weight of a bigger tyre will have an effect on the wear of the hinges.
So.. I think it is important that the alignment of all components of the barn-door assembly is as good as possible in the first place to avoid premature fatigue failure.
At the bottom of your RH barn-door you have a horizontal striker (round bolt) .
This striker slips into a tapered guide mounted on the vehicle side.
Make sure that both components are aligned perfectly.
Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 10 Jan 2017 14:39
by mve100
Misalligned is definitely where my problem started
Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 10 Jan 2017 14:53
by ricster
What is the difference in tyre weight between the standard 265/75/16 all terrain, highway and muddie, as well as the weigh difference then to the 285/75/16 muddie and AT tyre. I cannot believe that the weight difference would be that big a difference..... maybe a few kilos, so I think there is more to the alignment thing than we think. I have been carrying around a 33" tyre for 5 or 6 years on the back door and ( touch wood ) no cracks.
Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 10 Jan 2017 15:24
by Peter Connan
There is a huge weight difference between a tough tire (BF or Cooper, 3-ply sidewall and about 18mm deep tread) and a more normal AT like the Bridgestones 694.
I think the BF's can be almost double the weight of a same-size street tire.
Re: REAR DOOR FAILURE
Posted: 10 Jan 2017 15:31
by Picasso
Hi Cedric
I think the weight difference Matt is referring to is about 10 kg (285 BFG Mud vs 275 Joko AT), plus one needs to consider the leverage effect (mounting point wheel / hinge).
The wear on the hinges you can only really see / feel if the hinge is completely detached from the door.
The conclusion in my particular case:
I would assume that the previous owner of my vehicle might have used the RH barn door more frequently than other people would normally do.
Therefore the hinges were exposed to more ware than normal (in my case I did not have an over-sized / heavier tyre). This ware on the hinges caused the door to sag over time whereas there was no adjustment done to compensate for this ware. This caused additional stress on the door-frame (while closing the door) and combined with the poor design of the reinforcement piece caused metal fatigue on the top edge of the reinforcement plate.