Hi guys
Went through the process of changing the automatic gearbox fluid in the patrol recently and it was a cool but also expensive learning experience to say the least.
I had noticed a while back when I changed the main radiator that the gearbox fluid was bad. It was black and the viscosity was more like water than oil, clearly it was very old and may even have been the cause of the sporadic and random limp mode events in the past.
In the Haynes manual it states that the fluid capacity for the 5 speed auto in the 4.8 is 11L so I bought 12L of Nissan Matic J to be safe. The instructions are that one should drive the vehicle until the fluid is at normal operating temperature and then remove the transmission sump plug and drain the oil from the sump. Then replace the sump plug and refill with the same amount of fluid that came out, checking the level on the dipstick to be sure. I did this and only got 5 of the supposed 11L out of the sump. The torque converter is still full of bad oil, how to get it out?
I was then told that I can take off the hose that brings the fluid to the radiator for cooling and then start the vehicle. Let the vehicle idle and the fluid will pour out of the hose. At the same time I should pour the new fluid into the filler tube. Continue with the process until the fluid coming out of the hose becomes pink and new and not old and dirty. That way you know you got 90% of all the bad fluid out.
So that's what I did and low and behold my 12L of new fluid was not enough to flush out all the bad fluid, so then I bought another 5L and that did the trick. The fluid coming out of the hose became relatively pink but not completely. I reconnected the hose and then following the instructions in the Haynes manual I started the vehicle and let it idle for 5min until the engine was warm. Then you slowly cycle through all the gear selections and then put it in park and check the level while the engine is running. The dipstick was basically dry, just on the lower end of the cold range on the dipstick this means another week of waiting and another 5L of new fluid. This is a pain as I have to get the fluid couriered from Gaborone all the way to the tuli block which adds to the already expensive fluid and takes time, plus I think the guy in parts must think I'm drinking the stuff by now Obviously as you pour the new fluid in it mixes with some of the bad fluid and so you end up using more doing the flush in this way.
Anyway the point is that draining the transmission sump of its 5-6L of fluid and then topping up with the same amount DOES NOT constitute a proper fluid change in these gearboxes as the torque converter still has 7 or 8L of bad fluid in it that will mix with your new sump fluid as soon as you run the vehicle and render it pointless. So check this with your dealer or mechanic the next time you get yours changed. What is the change interval? Well the manuals say between 45000 and 75000km but I would change it as soon as it starts to change color from pink to black. If you tow or spend alotnof time doing strenuous driving the interval will be shorter.
By the time I get the balance of the new fluid and correct the levels in the gearbox I will have used about 22L of nissan matic J at a total cost of P5630 or R8170. At least I did it myself so there was no labor charge.
Hope this is useful to someone
Cheers chaps
4.8 Automatic gearbox fluid change
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4.8 Automatic gearbox fluid change
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When in doubt throttle out !
4.8 GRX Patrol (sold)
4.8 GRX Patrol (sold)
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Re: 4.8 Automatic gearbox fluid change
According to Nissan it's a lifetime oil..... I also did the oil change thing a while ago, but only drained the sump twice with about a month in between. I changed about 12 litres in the process. I figured some new oil is better than running the old oil. It's a quite expensive little exercise which at that time was in the region of R220 per litre
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Re: 4.8 Automatic gearbox fluid change
I think nissan says it's a lifetime oil but I bet the driving conditions they specify for ensuring longevity dont involve towing, adding weight and extras, lots of Offroad driving and so on and so forth. When I compared what the old fluid smelt like, looked like and felt like compared to the new fluid I cant see how it could have gone much longer or not caused issues down the line. I would rather spend the R8000 once every couple of years for peice of mind.
I'm really interested to see if it feels any different while driving and will report back as soon as I get the rest of the fluid and can go for a spin.
I'm really interested to see if it feels any different while driving and will report back as soon as I get the rest of the fluid and can go for a spin.
When in doubt throttle out !
4.8 GRX Patrol (sold)
4.8 GRX Patrol (sold)
- Tinus lotz
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Re: 4.8 Automatic gearbox fluid change
Lekke man putting clean oil in is the correct way spoke to frans a while ago and he also does it that way .
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Re: 4.8 Automatic gearbox fluid change
When I did mine I asked ZF Transmissions Meadowdale to do it.
I supplied the oil.
They have a machine that will flush 99 % of the old oil out.
It works on a bladder system as far as I recall and replaces exactly what was sucked out.
Might be an option for others
It certainly simplifies the process
I supplied the oil.
They have a machine that will flush 99 % of the old oil out.
It works on a bladder system as far as I recall and replaces exactly what was sucked out.
Might be an option for others
It certainly simplifies the process
- Tinus lotz
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- Full Name: Tinus lotz
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Re: 4.8 Automatic gearbox fluid change
When i did mine i put i funnel on the right side and droped the left one in a oil pan dont think there are much difference in doing it that way or not but the torque conferter says full on just draining the sump
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