Yet another difflock dies!
Posted: 06 Apr 2018 10:41
I killed my difflock
I have been pedantic about engaging and disengaging my factory rear locker. Always engaged it while stationary. If the light still flashed I'd crawl forward slightly to allow it to engage before pulling off. I don't use it often, but when I do I need it.
Over the long weekend I was camping at Swartruggens and doing some offroad driving. Difficult cross-axle obstacles one after the other. I engaged the locker and only got stuck on a breakover where the SWB jeep in front of me got stuck and I pulled him out. Knowing the breakover was too much I approached from a different line but it meant that I'd be cross axled and without the locker I wouldn't make it. I put the locker on and tried to do the obstacle. I got stuck and one of the guys in the group said I should engage the locker. I double checked... the locker light was on. a couple of guys helped push me backward and I bypassed the obstacle.
Johan Swift couldn't believe that I was able to follow the 37" twin locked SWB Rubicons! . He was even more stunned to find out that I did it with open diffs . But we all know Patrol's are good offroad vehicles. He always refers to my vehicle as "daai plaas implement"
What checks have been done?
I've since checked the solenoids... they both work.
Checked the mechanical movement of the actuator by taking off the sensor and putting a screwdriver against the actuator while engaging the locker.... it moves freely...in and out when vacuum is applied.
I've checked the vacuum on both lines at the actuator... Plenty... about 6oommHg, higher than the 500mmHg minimum required (according to the manual) I put it up on jack stands, engage low range, first gear, engage locker and I can stop the one rear wheel with my hands... the other keeps turning. Slight knock, knock, knock knock sound coming from the diff.
So its a mechanical issue inside the diff
after much reading I found some pics of some of the things which could go wrong:
Broken Fork Broken/damaged side gear or dog drive teeth (the two dog drive teeth engage with this gear to activate the locking of the diff) Broken actuator shaft
The only way to know is to remove the carrier and inspect. I don't have the $ at the moment to have it repaired. I can do it, but it is a horrible job, messy, and the carrier is bloody heavy. So, for the moment I'll just drain the diff oil to check for broken bits in the drained oil. once I'm happy that there's no loose material, I'll fill the diff with oil drive around locker-less
I have been pedantic about engaging and disengaging my factory rear locker. Always engaged it while stationary. If the light still flashed I'd crawl forward slightly to allow it to engage before pulling off. I don't use it often, but when I do I need it.
Over the long weekend I was camping at Swartruggens and doing some offroad driving. Difficult cross-axle obstacles one after the other. I engaged the locker and only got stuck on a breakover where the SWB jeep in front of me got stuck and I pulled him out. Knowing the breakover was too much I approached from a different line but it meant that I'd be cross axled and without the locker I wouldn't make it. I put the locker on and tried to do the obstacle. I got stuck and one of the guys in the group said I should engage the locker. I double checked... the locker light was on. a couple of guys helped push me backward and I bypassed the obstacle.
Johan Swift couldn't believe that I was able to follow the 37" twin locked SWB Rubicons! . He was even more stunned to find out that I did it with open diffs . But we all know Patrol's are good offroad vehicles. He always refers to my vehicle as "daai plaas implement"
What checks have been done?
I've since checked the solenoids... they both work.
Checked the mechanical movement of the actuator by taking off the sensor and putting a screwdriver against the actuator while engaging the locker.... it moves freely...in and out when vacuum is applied.
I've checked the vacuum on both lines at the actuator... Plenty... about 6oommHg, higher than the 500mmHg minimum required (according to the manual) I put it up on jack stands, engage low range, first gear, engage locker and I can stop the one rear wheel with my hands... the other keeps turning. Slight knock, knock, knock knock sound coming from the diff.
So its a mechanical issue inside the diff
after much reading I found some pics of some of the things which could go wrong:
Broken Fork Broken/damaged side gear or dog drive teeth (the two dog drive teeth engage with this gear to activate the locking of the diff) Broken actuator shaft
The only way to know is to remove the carrier and inspect. I don't have the $ at the moment to have it repaired. I can do it, but it is a horrible job, messy, and the carrier is bloody heavy. So, for the moment I'll just drain the diff oil to check for broken bits in the drained oil. once I'm happy that there's no loose material, I'll fill the diff with oil drive around locker-less