Auto Hubs Service
Posted: 05 May 2015 07:47
Hi Gents
So as I had some problems with my hubs a while back and went through the whole process of buying a second hand one I discovered that I replaced the wrong one. Not wanting to spend more money I decided to strip the actual "broken" one to see if it is fixable and discovered that it really only needed a service. My hub got some water in at one stage and the whole thing was full of gunk and very rusty.
So here is my post on how to strip and service a auto hub on a Y61, but I think it might be the same or similar to the Y60. The photos I used here is not of my problematic hub, but just one that I serviced for the purpose of this thread.
1. remove the hub from the wheel bearing housing by removing the 6 x 8mm allen key bolts
2. once removed you will already be able to see and feel in what condition your hub is in, on mine you could see that there are problems even before I stripped it.
3. To be able to strip the hub you need to remove the thin ring that is pressed into the hub. I just tightened the hub inside the vice and knocked it out with a hammer and screw driver.
4. Here is how it looks with the ring removed
5. now you can remove the auto locking part of the hub, it basically falls out when the ring is removed
6. Here is a close up photo of how the hub looks after the auto locking mechanism has been removed. This is the actual part that locks the hub when you turn the bolt to "Lock". This hub wasnt in bad shape and was still working.
7. This is the hub housing once the mechanism has been removed
8. Locking mechanism, quite dirty....
9. Now we are half way and all that is left is a bit of elbow grease and some de greaser. I use a very strong cleaning agent called "Klear 4007" and I get it from Farm City.
10. Close up of the housing after it has been cleaned. If you look carefully you can see it has a bit of wear and tear on it, but nothing to worry about in my opinion.
11. Close up of the locking mechanism after it has been cleaned
12. Now you can lubricate everything and start to assemble. I used normal engine oil and will explain later why I used this insted of grease. Make sure when you put the locking mechanism back into the housing that the two little arms on the mechanism line up with the slots in the housing. my finger will point out the parts that need to allign in the next two photos. Once you put it in you can wiggle it a bit and you will feel it click into place
13. Installed locking mechanism
14. Now you install the auto locking mechanism, make sure the copper cir-clip is on the opposite side of the high part of the locking mechanism. (hope this sentence makes sense)
15. Now you just install the thin "locking ring" and thats that in a hat.
16. Now the last thing you can do, (thanks Christo for reminding me about this) is to put a thin layer of silicone where the auto hub bolts onto the wheel bearing housing. This wil make sure that your auto hub will stay dry inside when doing deep water and mud crossings
So as I had some problems with my hubs a while back and went through the whole process of buying a second hand one I discovered that I replaced the wrong one. Not wanting to spend more money I decided to strip the actual "broken" one to see if it is fixable and discovered that it really only needed a service. My hub got some water in at one stage and the whole thing was full of gunk and very rusty.
So here is my post on how to strip and service a auto hub on a Y61, but I think it might be the same or similar to the Y60. The photos I used here is not of my problematic hub, but just one that I serviced for the purpose of this thread.
1. remove the hub from the wheel bearing housing by removing the 6 x 8mm allen key bolts
2. once removed you will already be able to see and feel in what condition your hub is in, on mine you could see that there are problems even before I stripped it.
3. To be able to strip the hub you need to remove the thin ring that is pressed into the hub. I just tightened the hub inside the vice and knocked it out with a hammer and screw driver.
4. Here is how it looks with the ring removed
5. now you can remove the auto locking part of the hub, it basically falls out when the ring is removed
6. Here is a close up photo of how the hub looks after the auto locking mechanism has been removed. This is the actual part that locks the hub when you turn the bolt to "Lock". This hub wasnt in bad shape and was still working.
7. This is the hub housing once the mechanism has been removed
8. Locking mechanism, quite dirty....
9. Now we are half way and all that is left is a bit of elbow grease and some de greaser. I use a very strong cleaning agent called "Klear 4007" and I get it from Farm City.
10. Close up of the housing after it has been cleaned. If you look carefully you can see it has a bit of wear and tear on it, but nothing to worry about in my opinion.
11. Close up of the locking mechanism after it has been cleaned
12. Now you can lubricate everything and start to assemble. I used normal engine oil and will explain later why I used this insted of grease. Make sure when you put the locking mechanism back into the housing that the two little arms on the mechanism line up with the slots in the housing. my finger will point out the parts that need to allign in the next two photos. Once you put it in you can wiggle it a bit and you will feel it click into place
13. Installed locking mechanism
14. Now you install the auto locking mechanism, make sure the copper cir-clip is on the opposite side of the high part of the locking mechanism. (hope this sentence makes sense)
15. Now you just install the thin "locking ring" and thats that in a hat.
16. Now the last thing you can do, (thanks Christo for reminding me about this) is to put a thin layer of silicone where the auto hub bolts onto the wheel bearing housing. This wil make sure that your auto hub will stay dry inside when doing deep water and mud crossings