Wheelbearings
- Peter Connan
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- Full Name: Peter Connan
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Re: Wheelbearings
Wheel bearings are the same, but some of the seals are different due to the GQ's not having ABS sensors.
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
- marakasmalan
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- Full Name: Marnus Malan
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Re: Wheelbearings
My 2 pence:
I opened up this whole catastrophy now to replace the axle oil seals, and I decided to replace ALL bearings. After a lot of struggling with BMI and Bearings International etc etc, I got the bearings from Ace bearings in Kempton, off the shelf - the milling required on the one. A little more pricey than what is quoted here. SIN and FAG bearings.
The Kingpin and Needle bearings I gor in a kit from Down Under - Koyo bearings.
Now unless something seriously went wrong - DON'T replace the needle and kingpin bearings. Just don't. It will outlive just about anything else on the car.
Secondly, apart from being unnecessary, there are so-called "kingpin plugs", indicated as a sundry/replacement item in the manual and about the size of a R5 coin, just slightly concave. R287 each - you need 4. Shims, what size and how much you'll need is debatable - R80 - R125 each - you may need 4, you may need 12...
Regarding the interval - there is some hidden code written on the chassis of my GQ that says ±200 000km unless wear & tear symptoms indicate otherwise. A bearing gives warning.
Anybody that do want to do this on a GQ - I have extra OEM oil seals, and some odd number of odd thickness shims... - talk to me.
I opened up this whole catastrophy now to replace the axle oil seals, and I decided to replace ALL bearings. After a lot of struggling with BMI and Bearings International etc etc, I got the bearings from Ace bearings in Kempton, off the shelf - the milling required on the one. A little more pricey than what is quoted here. SIN and FAG bearings.
The Kingpin and Needle bearings I gor in a kit from Down Under - Koyo bearings.
Now unless something seriously went wrong - DON'T replace the needle and kingpin bearings. Just don't. It will outlive just about anything else on the car.
Secondly, apart from being unnecessary, there are so-called "kingpin plugs", indicated as a sundry/replacement item in the manual and about the size of a R5 coin, just slightly concave. R287 each - you need 4. Shims, what size and how much you'll need is debatable - R80 - R125 each - you may need 4, you may need 12...
Regarding the interval - there is some hidden code written on the chassis of my GQ that says ±200 000km unless wear & tear symptoms indicate otherwise. A bearing gives warning.
Anybody that do want to do this on a GQ - I have extra OEM oil seals, and some odd number of odd thickness shims... - talk to me.
- marakasmalan
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Re: Wheelbearings
So, a update on my progress.
The rear cliphers has been rebuild and the discs replaced with powerbrake discs. Fitted the missing backing lates / Disc shields with a paired I liberated from a rusty Natal Patrol standing at the Volschenk Salvage Yard. Had to repaint them.
Fixed the sliding bolt's holes with some sandpaper on Peter tool fixing to the drill:
and fixed the pitted rusty slider to the drill:
When assembled:
Then started with the front axle. You can see the oil leaks due to the broken seal:
For those of you wondering, I also teach my son other important stuff, not just fixing Patrol elements:
The rear cliphers has been rebuild and the discs replaced with powerbrake discs. Fitted the missing backing lates / Disc shields with a paired I liberated from a rusty Natal Patrol standing at the Volschenk Salvage Yard. Had to repaint them.
Fixed the sliding bolt's holes with some sandpaper on Peter tool fixing to the drill:
and fixed the pitted rusty slider to the drill:
When assembled:
Then started with the front axle. You can see the oil leaks due to the broken seal:
For those of you wondering, I also teach my son other important stuff, not just fixing Patrol elements:
- marakasmalan
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- Full Name: Marnus Malan
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Re: Wheelbearings
Front axle bearings:
there was very much nothing wrong with the bearings, and I was almost at the point of deciding not to replace the king pin bearings. Though the bearings seams fine, there is a lot of pitting in the king pin bearing "seat" Not sure what it is called, but the place on the trunion socket where the bearings run. Can I ignore and refit the bearings or is this a bad problem?
The grease was fine and I did not see any evidence of water causing this rust and pitting, so it may have been a occurrence prior to a previous bearing replacement. But I could see no evidence of the king pin bearings ever been replaced.
The tool for cleaning the axle inside, there was some gunk in the axle: Pitting on the trunion: Also discover the front calipers are in a horrible condition. They have two pistons - the rear caliper kit was R1500+ from Nissan - any ideas where I can get these seals and grease and rubbers at an affordable price?
The one benefit of having a Diesel, you can simple remove the calipers if there are any problems, as they are used to counter the effect of speed...
there was very much nothing wrong with the bearings, and I was almost at the point of deciding not to replace the king pin bearings. Though the bearings seams fine, there is a lot of pitting in the king pin bearing "seat" Not sure what it is called, but the place on the trunion socket where the bearings run. Can I ignore and refit the bearings or is this a bad problem?
The grease was fine and I did not see any evidence of water causing this rust and pitting, so it may have been a occurrence prior to a previous bearing replacement. But I could see no evidence of the king pin bearings ever been replaced.
The tool for cleaning the axle inside, there was some gunk in the axle: Pitting on the trunion: Also discover the front calipers are in a horrible condition. They have two pistons - the rear caliper kit was R1500+ from Nissan - any ideas where I can get these seals and grease and rubbers at an affordable price?
The one benefit of having a Diesel, you can simple remove the calipers if there are any problems, as they are used to counter the effect of speed...
- bogeyman
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- Full Name: Christo Boegman
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Re: Wheelbearings
Marnus,
I was forced to replace kingpin bearings on one of my 600k km + Safaries when the steering became semi locked straight ahead and took some serious effort to turn.
I found the needles had embedded themselves into the races. Strangely that also sorted out the play I felt when manually checking wheel bearing play.
Sometimes one forgets to check every part of an assembly.
Those new back brake discs look like Powerbrake. I found that they work well when warm , but not well when cold.
When I approach my slow sliding gate in the mornings and the 4.5 engine is still revving high for warmup , that autobox is stronger than the brakes and it is back to seat cleaning duty.
I was forced to replace kingpin bearings on one of my 600k km + Safaries when the steering became semi locked straight ahead and took some serious effort to turn.
I found the needles had embedded themselves into the races. Strangely that also sorted out the play I felt when manually checking wheel bearing play.
Sometimes one forgets to check every part of an assembly.
Those new back brake discs look like Powerbrake. I found that they work well when warm , but not well when cold.
When I approach my slow sliding gate in the mornings and the 4.5 engine is still revving high for warmup , that autobox is stronger than the brakes and it is back to seat cleaning duty.
- marakasmalan
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Re: Wheelbearings
Christo, you are right, it is powerbrake.
But only the discs. Powerbrake shoes are intended for racing, so for me pointless to use on a patrol.
But the discs are steel and i am not so sure if they contribute to the effectiveness at high temps only.
BUT, it was the cheapest discs I could get. The pads are ferodo. Also note the jacking bolt-hole that PC put in, as powerbrake reckons their paint makes it easy to remove. I opted not to trust them.
But only the discs. Powerbrake shoes are intended for racing, so for me pointless to use on a patrol.
But the discs are steel and i am not so sure if they contribute to the effectiveness at high temps only.
BUT, it was the cheapest discs I could get. The pads are ferodo. Also note the jacking bolt-hole that PC put in, as powerbrake reckons their paint makes it easy to remove. I opted not to trust them.
- marakasmalan
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Re: Wheelbearings
There is some granular gunk in the axle - but the axle narrows towards the end with a collar, so not that easy to get it out. If I flush it with petrol int the pumkin an drain out - or rather leave as is?
Where do you get those beefy magnets every workshop have, mounter on wheels and attached to a broomstick to pick up ferrous kakkas?
Adios
Where do you get those beefy magnets every workshop have, mounter on wheels and attached to a broomstick to pick up ferrous kakkas?
Adios
- Tinus lotz
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Re: Wheelbearings
From the back of a old speaker?marakasmalan wrote:There is some granular gunk in the axle - but the axle narrows towards the end with a collar, so not that easy to get it out. If I flush it with petrol int the pumkin an drain out - or rather leave as is?
Where do you get those beefy magnets every workshop have, mounter on wheels and attached to a broomstick to pick up ferrous kakkas?
Adios
- marakasmalan
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Re: Wheelbearings
Tinus, het jy vir my 'n ou speaker? Niemand luister anyway na daardie twee in jou agterdeure nie...Tinus lotz wrote:From the back of a old speaker?
- Tinus lotz
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