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Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Posted: 13 Dec 2019 08:22
by Dungbeetle
Florian320 wrote: 13 Dec 2019 08:19 ..............n that the free wheeling mechanism of the a/c compressor also could have a very slight screeching sound.
Can that one be changed alone or would that mean a new compressor?

I‘d like to get that area done in one move when I have it worked on...
I would be very surprised if that is shod - Mine has 20 years 843000 km and still OK

and - worn belts that pull into grove type pulleys also moan - at the pulley

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Posted: 03 Jan 2020 16:19
by Florian320
The sound really is very little, so maybe it would be a bit early to change something.

The sound I started this thread about stopped a few days after driving through water.
So maybe it was just a bit of dirt which was trapped in one bearing, what would you say?

Tear the stuff open and change something or rather wait and see?

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Posted: 05 Jan 2020 09:10
by Peter Connan
Get yourself a 6303 bearing (17mm Id, 47mm OD and 14mm wide). This is the idler bearing which I still believe is the one causing the problem.

You can keep it in your tool box untill the bearing starts causing problems again Sooner or later, you will need it.

You will need a 14mm socket on a ratchet, and a small (1/4" drive) 10mm socket on a long extension as well as a pair of internal circlip pliers to change out the bearing, and you will probably bleed a little bit in the process.

Honestly, it's such a mission to change out in the field, that I would just do it before it really starts causing problems.

Added note: this same bearing is used in the TB42, TB45 AND TD42, however the tools needed to fit it may vary.

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Posted: 05 Jan 2020 12:00
by Florian320
Good morning Peter,

thanks a lot for this valuable information!
That‘s what I‘ll do: get this bearing an have it changed in the workshop or do it mysel, I‘ll see if I think I can do it.

I‘ll post an update when I changed it.

Have a great Sunday!

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Posted: 14 Jan 2020 17:19
by offroadbiker
Peter Connan wrote: 05 Jan 2020 09:10 Get yourself a 6303 bearing (17mm Id, 47mm OD and 14mm wide). This is the idler bearing which I still believe is the one causing the problem.

You can keep it in your tool box untill the bearing starts causing problems again Sooner or later, you will need it.

You will need a 14mm socket on a ratchet, and a small (1/4" drive) 10mm socket on a long extension as well as a pair of internal circlip pliers to change out the bearing, and you will probably bleed a little bit in the process.

Honestly, it's such a mission to change out in the field, that I would just do it before it really starts causing problems.

Added note: this same bearing is used in the TB42, TB45 AND TD42, however the tools needed to fit it may vary.
Peter is dit nodig om te doen as preventative maintenance?

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Posted: 15 Jan 2020 05:00
by Peter Connan
Dirk, hy gee gewoonlik redelik lank waarskuwing. Ek dink nie dis nodig nie.

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Posted: 30 Jan 2020 15:41
by Florian320
Ok, here is an update:
I decided to do the big number as the area was worked on anyhow and everyhing accessbile.
So I got a new water pump, thermostat for very hot conditions, viscous coupling and fan blade plus the bearing.
In addition I had the cooling system flushed.

The pump still looked good, no noise, a little corrosion but in working condition.
Anyhow it seems that my viscous coupling was gone as the fan didn't really go on during driving but no does above 84°.

Also the temperature now is a bit more stable than before.

Re: 4.5 Water pump bearing change?

Posted: 02 Feb 2020 08:03
by Florian320
I can now positively say that my viscous coupling was done.
Now the temperature reacts also much more 'logical', I can see that it meanders around / above the thermostat opening temperature.

Before it would go very rarely but then quite quick to more than 90 degrees, now it always stays around 82 (opening temperature 76°).
The water level always was good.

The viscous coupling activates around 84 degrees and works a lot - I couldn't hear the fan before so that one for sure was gone.

In the end I can only guess wether the pump or (also) the thermostat had an issue but the overall result is very positive. The additional flushing of the system also might have done it's positive part.