Warning - Older Vehicles - Check Your Water Pipes
Posted: 29 Jan 2019 14:04
Folkses - some on the Whatsapp group have probably realised I've had several water pipe issues recently.
I had my radiator hoses as well as one side of the pipes running to the heater matrix replaced quite recently, as I was concerned about issues coming up. I mean - my truck is quite aged...
In any case, on the 2nd January, I lost the first pipe. In this case, it was the first pipe running underneath the engine cover (highlighted red in the image below), which is the one side of the throttle assembly and oil cooler bits.
The thread is here : http://patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=8173
I fixed this on the day, got the truck home, and later also installed a coolant level detector (http://patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=8194). There is still some controversy in terms of my install, as depending on where a pipe bursts, there may be the fact that the overflow tank is not drained by the motor, in which case, the early warning system will fail. But I'll rectify this at some point. In the meantime, the system has saved me...
Yesterday, I lost more pipes. The pipes which failed catastrophically, was the 90 degree pipe running down to the oil cooler (green). I also noticed that the pipe running from the thermostat housing to the metal heater return pipe (blue), was also dodgy. And it appears as this may have also been leaking as a result of the coolant spray patterns on the block next to it.
Thankfully, this occurred in Brits, and the Madman CLD picked it up. Motor was still 100% in normal temperature range when I shut it off. Was just driving out of Brits, when the alarm went off. Stopped at the garage just outside town and noticed the truck was losing water. I let everything cool, refilled and bled, and drove back to home, whereafter the whole process of replacing pipes actually started.
Replacing them is horrible, but possible. Just be prepared to speak a lot of foreign in the process. Apart from the 90 degree pipe running to the oil cooler, as well as the heater hoses on the back firewall, which can apparently only be obtained from the dealerships (or possibly Terrain Tamer as well), all pipes are very generic, and you can get them at any spares shop. Graham gave me an alternate part number for the oil cooler pipe - RH7013 or PH0001. It's a pipe which is a little longer on both ends, but the correct diameter, and the ends can just be trimmed off to the correct length.
The set of heater hoses on the firewall on the driver's side of the truck have been replaced. The set on the right look relatively OK, but I will have them replaced when I have the truck services again just to be sure.
Disassembly
I removed the battery, as well as the alternator so that I would have (barely) enough space to get at the various pipes from the drivers' side of the vehicle. After this, I carefully removed all the hose clamps on the pipes. After some attempts at getting the pipes off, I ended up getting some advice (thanks both Peter Connan and Graham) and used a Stanley knife to cut the pipe length ways where it attacked to the steel connectors. After this, the hoses came off relatively easily.
After getting all the pipes I required (all those marked highlighted in the image), new jubilee clamps and trimming the pipes to the correct lengths, I started the process of reassembly.
Assembly
Firstly, I removed the 12mm bolt holding the metal bit running to the throttle body and oil cooler (green in the image below) and removed that bit from it's normal position underneath the throttle body. And then I put the various pipes onto the thing with clamps loosely fastened.
Next, I removed the 2x 12mm bolts which hold the metal heater return pipe (red in the image below) to the inlet manifold. This would give enough room to install the new pipes. At this point, I firstly installed the long pipe running from the oil cooler to the heater return pipe (yellow in image 1).
I did not tighten the clamps too tightly, as I wanted some play for installing the pipe on the end of the heater return assembly (blue in image 1). Once these two pipes were on, I tightened the clamps on all the pipes.
Next, I maneuvered the other piece I had removed and partially connected "off-vehicle" (the green bit) into it's spot underneath the throttle. I first connected the pipe which runs up to the throttle assembly (purple in image 1), as it made the most sense to do it first - ie: so I could move the bit around a little. Next, I connected the thicker pipe (red in image 1). Finally, I connected the 90 degree pipe which runs to the oil cooler (green in image 1). Only at this point, did I tighten all the clamps on the pipes.
And at this point, one reattach the two metal pipes to the inlet manifold with the appropriate bolts, reinstall the alternator and battery.
Afterwards
Afterwards, I flushed and refilled the radiator with anti-freeze and bled appropriately.
After Thoughts
I had my radiator hoses as well as one side of the pipes running to the heater matrix replaced quite recently, as I was concerned about issues coming up. I mean - my truck is quite aged...
In any case, on the 2nd January, I lost the first pipe. In this case, it was the first pipe running underneath the engine cover (highlighted red in the image below), which is the one side of the throttle assembly and oil cooler bits.
The thread is here : http://patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=8173
I fixed this on the day, got the truck home, and later also installed a coolant level detector (http://patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=8194). There is still some controversy in terms of my install, as depending on where a pipe bursts, there may be the fact that the overflow tank is not drained by the motor, in which case, the early warning system will fail. But I'll rectify this at some point. In the meantime, the system has saved me...
Yesterday, I lost more pipes. The pipes which failed catastrophically, was the 90 degree pipe running down to the oil cooler (green). I also noticed that the pipe running from the thermostat housing to the metal heater return pipe (blue), was also dodgy. And it appears as this may have also been leaking as a result of the coolant spray patterns on the block next to it.
Thankfully, this occurred in Brits, and the Madman CLD picked it up. Motor was still 100% in normal temperature range when I shut it off. Was just driving out of Brits, when the alarm went off. Stopped at the garage just outside town and noticed the truck was losing water. I let everything cool, refilled and bled, and drove back to home, whereafter the whole process of replacing pipes actually started.
Replacing them is horrible, but possible. Just be prepared to speak a lot of foreign in the process. Apart from the 90 degree pipe running to the oil cooler, as well as the heater hoses on the back firewall, which can apparently only be obtained from the dealerships (or possibly Terrain Tamer as well), all pipes are very generic, and you can get them at any spares shop. Graham gave me an alternate part number for the oil cooler pipe - RH7013 or PH0001. It's a pipe which is a little longer on both ends, but the correct diameter, and the ends can just be trimmed off to the correct length.
The set of heater hoses on the firewall on the driver's side of the truck have been replaced. The set on the right look relatively OK, but I will have them replaced when I have the truck services again just to be sure.
Disassembly
I removed the battery, as well as the alternator so that I would have (barely) enough space to get at the various pipes from the drivers' side of the vehicle. After this, I carefully removed all the hose clamps on the pipes. After some attempts at getting the pipes off, I ended up getting some advice (thanks both Peter Connan and Graham) and used a Stanley knife to cut the pipe length ways where it attacked to the steel connectors. After this, the hoses came off relatively easily.
After getting all the pipes I required (all those marked highlighted in the image), new jubilee clamps and trimming the pipes to the correct lengths, I started the process of reassembly.
- PIPES-REPLACED.png (200.96 KiB) Viewed 6633 times
Firstly, I removed the 12mm bolt holding the metal bit running to the throttle body and oil cooler (green in the image below) and removed that bit from it's normal position underneath the throttle body. And then I put the various pipes onto the thing with clamps loosely fastened.
Next, I removed the 2x 12mm bolts which hold the metal heater return pipe (red in the image below) to the inlet manifold. This would give enough room to install the new pipes. At this point, I firstly installed the long pipe running from the oil cooler to the heater return pipe (yellow in image 1).
- HEATER RETURN.png (201.15 KiB) Viewed 6633 times
Next, I maneuvered the other piece I had removed and partially connected "off-vehicle" (the green bit) into it's spot underneath the throttle. I first connected the pipe which runs up to the throttle assembly (purple in image 1), as it made the most sense to do it first - ie: so I could move the bit around a little. Next, I connected the thicker pipe (red in image 1). Finally, I connected the 90 degree pipe which runs to the oil cooler (green in image 1). Only at this point, did I tighten all the clamps on the pipes.
And at this point, one reattach the two metal pipes to the inlet manifold with the appropriate bolts, reinstall the alternator and battery.
Afterwards
Afterwards, I flushed and refilled the radiator with anti-freeze and bled appropriately.
After Thoughts
- Replacing these items are absolutely horrible
- But probably vitally important on an older vehicle.
- Space to work is at a premium, so plan ahead before just doing things.
- Make sure you plan the position of your clamps appropriately so that you can get to them with the relevant fastening device (screw driver, spanner, socket, etc).
- Most importantly, remember that the long pipe connecting to the oil cooler will be behind the 90 degree pipe. So install it first or you will not be able to fasten it
